Create emotions through cosmetic textures

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  • January 1, 2019
  • 6 mins of read time

Create emotions through cosmetic textures

aurélie brunel
Aurélie Brunel
Sabrina Mizaël
Sabrina Mizaël
juanshu-shen
Juanshu Shen

“Health is the new wealth !” - taking care of yourself and create space and time to clear your mind is becoming a luxury. Nowadays, in the fast paced world we are living in, being HAPPY is the new life goal and all industries (food, travelling, cosmetics, luxury, …) are capitalizing on the overall wellness trend emerging from this 21st century demand of self care and acceptance.

As the world is becoming more and more stressful, we are entering the so called “Age of anxiety” and depression is skyrocketing everywhere and will be the 1st health risk by 2030.

Some examples around the world are already showing the situation urgency:

  • In a pressuring society like Japan, some people are withdrawing themselves from all social contact and society. They are called “Hikikomori” and this phenomena is not only happening in this country but other cases have been seen in the US, South Korea, Hong Kong, Spain, France, …
  • In UK, mental health issue awareness is strong as the country is considering itself in crisis. Communication campaigns are strong on different media like BBC Radio One, the most listened radio in the country.

On the bright side, actions are taken to keep up the good mood at work, for example with the creation of Chief Officer Happiness, or even in the beauty industry with the introduction of new rituals (like massages, skin yoga, …) to enhance general mood thanks to psychoactive scents, active blends stimulating the production of “happiness molecules”, or even mood color psychology on packaging (picking an uplifting color can create positive emotions).
Listen to emotions and self care are a rising trend in the cosmetic industry as an answer to a harsh daily reality. 

Positive emotions to gain consumers

Cosmetic industry is entering the full holistic approach through wellness, emotions and creating “me-time” moments in the bathroom in order to clear the mind, disconnect from the exhausting world around and bring serenity and happiness to the consumer. The selection of texture and ingredients are key to achieve total wellness, the new beauty goal.

Sensoriality of cosmetic products and emotions that they bring are crucial parameters in the buying process and consumers can become effectively attached to a product because of the comforting effect, the touch or smell, … Nowadays, brands are going beyond classical benefits such as soothing and moisturization: they want to bring positive mood-boosting solutions!

A study on polymers has been launched with several innovative methods to measure the emotions of consumers. The study shows that SIMULGEL™  I-NS 100 and SEPINOV™ EMT 10 in aqueous gel generate pleasure to consumers; the aqueous gel of SEPIMAX ZEN™ was considered as innovative texture by more than 60% of the consumers with a surprising effect.  All these positive reactions around the application of the cosmetic formulations can be powerful buying factors.

EMOSMART™ and EMOGREEN™ ranges were also tested and showed that they were appreciated as much as oils that are used for decades by the cosmetic industry for their sensorial properties, This statement being especially true for Dimethicone (350cps).

Spiritual massage cream relaxing

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Sensory analysis helps to understand emotions created by a texture

Sensory analysis is an interesting approach to measure scientifically how humans can perceive their environment through the five senses, and especially the pleasuring effect of touch when applied to cosmetic products. Robust statistical results from these studies are key to take decision on product launch, positioning, appreciation and acceptance.

Seppic trained sensory panel evaluates different formula criteria at different times of application in order to obtain precise data and complete understanding of the product perception and so the emotional benefit of it. These results can also be combined with instrumental measurements to get the full sensorial picture of the texture. 

The Seppic trained panel uses the PIVOT© analysis method which is a new holistic method allowing to evaluate the influence of an ingredient on a cosmetic product sensoriality and texture. EMOGREEN™ sensory profile has been compared to that of volatile silicone oil during the different steps of the sensory evaluation thanks this method.

Seppic launches EMOGREEN™ C69

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Like a fragrance, a cosmetic galenic needs three types of oils to reveal its sensorial effects all along the texture application: the head, heart and base oils. The head oils, more evanescent, are first felt at the beginning of the application. Then, they allow the heart oils to be felt, giving its spreading and gliding properties to the texture. They prolong the head oils freshness and announce the base oils. These molecules, more heavy, appear at the end of the application and give the texture its personality and after feel.

 The two light EMOSMART™ (L15 and L19) are evanescent, and have a shorter playtime and play the role of the head oils. EMOSMART™ V21, as EMOGREEN™ L15, confer an infinite gliding to the texture, characteristic of the heart oils. EMOGREEN™ L19 and C69 and EMOSMART™ C28 are defined by their touch, respectively powdery and nourishing, felt at the end of the application.

Rheological modifiers play an important role on the skin feel, especially upon application. Depending on the nature of the polymer used, a rich or quick-break effect can be felt when the formula comes into contact with the skin. Seppic provides a complete range of multifunctional polymers, which, beyond the functions of thickening and stabilizing, provides diverse skin feel and textures. From an ultra-light quick-break feeling, to a luxury rich and absolute comfort, even some specific sensations such as silicone-like gliding, the skin feel of Seppic polymers is specially designed to answer different applications requirements. 

For example: SEPIMAX ZEN™ gives substantial presence and richness during spreading and a velvet finish; SEPIPLUS™ 400 provides a gliding effect and is easy to spread; SIMULGEL™ I-NS 100 and SEPINOV™ EMT 10 present a fresh touch and SIMULGEL™ EG a soft and light skin feel with an excellent pick-up.

Polymeric Thickeners & Stabilizers

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Sensory and emotions to boost self-esteem

Even if the actual situation doesn’t seem bright, another human emotion is still very present: optimism! Through self-acceptance and self-care campaigns, brands are launching products to create a real routine for a me-time with a purpose to disconnect and to make happiness a real mojo in life! 

We can notice products in the market that enhance Self-Esteem like CERAMOSIDES™ HP a Wesource™ active ingredient acting as complexion corrector to wake up tired and mature skin. This unique (patented) complex of plant-based ceramides identical to those found on the skin and containing a high concentration of omega fatty acids (3, 6 and 9) will give some pep to skin… as to self-esteem! 

CERAMOSIDES™ HP offers 3-in-1 action to prepare and maintain a flawless complexion. As an emotions vector, CERAMOSIDES™ HP allows to reinforce positive emotions and self-esteem of volunteers, on top of its high performance on the complexion, showed during a neuroscientific double-blinded study on 53 persons vs. Placebo. 

More and more studies and claims are showing not only good technical efficacy of the product but also the emotional value they can bring in a full holistic approach: women feeling more beautiful, empowerment, happy skin, ready for the day, pro-aging… age perception is only a number!

ASPAR’AGE™ is a good example of a Wesource™ active ingredient with the positive aging approach thanks to its age perception study: volunteers were perceived younger by people looking at their picture after using a cream containing ASPAR’AGE™ after 28 days.

Instead of fearing and fighting ageing, beauty consumers now want positive emotions and sensorial formulas to feel happier and more self-confident!

Sources

  • Japan struggles to keep loneliness at arm's length - The Japan Time, November 2018
  • The plight of japan's modern hermits, BBC, January 2019