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Sustainability, Performance & Sensoriality in Hair Care

Sustainability, Performance & Sensoriality

The new must have in hair care

Women pay special attention to their hair. A tool of seduction, revealing personality or a true means of expression, hair is one of the keys to the beauty of every woman. This group is therefore particularly demanding regarding their hair routine: it must be adapted to their own hair type for more performance but also be pleasant to use. Hair care is actually a very segmented sector that is moving more and more towards customization.

We observe a growing demand for sustainability in hair care. Consumers are increasingly concerned about the potential impact of cosmetics on their health: it's the “egology”! They expect more natural products, naturality is for them related with safety, but also simpler formulas free from controversial ingredients ("clean cosmetic” trend). Others are more sensitive to the environmental impact of their consumption: they are receptive to innovations that limit the consumption of water and energy or reduce pollution related to the release of ingredients in nature. They are also concerned about the raw material supply conditions and expect more transparency from the brands.

Combining performance, sensoriality and sustainability has become the new challenge of hair care. SEPPIC innovates in this field by offering ingredients but also inspiring formulas meeting these new consumer expectations.

1. EMOGREEN™/EMOSMART™

The hair care market is currently focused on silicone oils replacement: very appreciated and commonly used for decades, these oils are now criticized because of their non biodegradability. Some of them, like D4 and D5 are actually limited by regulation. These materials are now limited to 0.1% in the rinse-off products due to their very persistent and very bioaccumulative (vPvB) nature. In addition, silicone oils also have an impact on the environment due to their industrial production process which has a high carbon footprint.

To answer this market demand, SEPPIC introduced EMOGREEN™ and EMOSMART™ product lines: true sensorial, readily biodegradable and efficient alternative to silicones oils.

Readily biodegradable and high purity alkanes

EMOSMART™ and EMOGREEN™ are readily biodegradable, fluid, and inert oils. The patented production process enables the creation of high purity products. These neutral alkanes (inert and non-polar) are compatible with extreme formulation conditions. They are not sensitive to oxidation, pH change or oxidizing/reducing media.
The EMOGREEN™ range is based on sustainable vegetable biomass (the non GMO initial raw material is traceable to plantations and covered by a Mass Balance certificate according to RSPO). EMOGREEN™ is COSMOS approved and NATRUE certified.

One step closer to sustainable and responsible cosmetics
EMOSMART™ and EMOGREEN™ have a very low impact on the environment. One of the main benefits of the range is that they are readily biodegradable and present a negligible carbon footprint in comparison with silicone oils (EMOSMART™ reduces the carbon footprint by 85%, while EMOGREEN™ goes further with a 115% reduction).

Hair Beauty

For the past five years, one of the three most used claim for shampoos, hair treatments and conditioners is hair shine1. Whatever the hair type, ethnicity, culture and region, consumers are all looking for shinier hair; a synonym of healthy hair. EMOSMART™ and EMOGREEN™ are proven to bring shine to hair.
The test consists of only one application of classical rinse-off conditioner formulas containing only 1% of EMOSMART™ V21, EMOGREEN™ L15 or Phenyl Trimethicone (hair shine reference). Both EMOSMART™ and EMOGREEN™ deliver significant hair shine in comparison with the untreated hair tress, however Phenyl Trimethicone does not significantly increase hair shine.

1: Shampoo, Conditioners and Hair Treatments Launches Worldwide Mintel Analysis (from January 2013 to December 2017 - 61.816 Products).

Figure 1 Hair Shine Measurement (Caucasian Hair - Rinse-off)

If shine is the first sign of healthy hair, hair suppleness and manageability could be the next criteria.
During an evaluation performed by three hairdressers on fifteen volunteers, EMOSMART™ V21 (2%) demonstrated its ability to replace 2% silicone oil (Dimethicone) in a rinse-off formula. The EMOSMART™ V21 formula was selected by the professionals as their favorite product; the one they would prefer to use in their hair salon. EMOSMART™ V21 shows similar results to Dimethicone in terms of performance and sensoriality. The hairdressers found the formula containing EMOSMART™ V21 as easy to apply and rinse as the one with Dimethicone. The ease of combing was also facilitated with both formulas. More important is the sensory part. Dimethicone is well known for the gliding sensation it brings to wet hair but also the softness, shine, and suppleness it gives to hair after drying. The professionals evaluated EMOSMART™ V21 to be as good as Dimethicone in improving hair appearance and touch.

Figure 2 Hairdressers Evaluation (Caucasian Hair - Rinse-off)

Hair Strength

EMOSMART™ and EMOGREEN™ also have an action on the core of the hair fiber. They significantly repair damaged hair fibers after only one application in a rinse-off conditioner formula. The evaluation of the formula’s capacity to reduce hair damage was performed in vitro (hair fibers Scanning Electron Microscopy image) by counting the number of damaged cuticles. All the tested oils (EMOSMART™ V21, EMOGREEN™L15 and Dimethicone 350cps), incorporated at 2% in the formulas decrease the percentage of damaged cuticles by approximately 50%.

EMOGREEN™ L15 is the perfect ally to protect hair fiber from repeated mechanical stress. Tested with the Flexabrasion method, it shows its ability to reinforce the hair fiber, making it more resistant to mechanical stress (bending, friction and abrasion solicitations) over a steel wire. The results of EMOGREEN™ L15 are significantly better than those obtained with Cyclopentasiloxane and Isohexadecane on treated hair fibers.

Figure 3 Repeated Mechanical Stress Resistance (Caucasian Hair - Leave-on)

Emollients for all types of stressful formulations

Thanks to their chemical nature, EMOSMART™ and EMOGREEN™ are versatile oils for cosmetic products formulation.
Being inert and non polar, EMOSMART™ and EMOGREEN™ are compatible with extreme formulation conditions. They are highly resistant to oxidizing/reducing media. Therefore, they are perfectly suitable for a use in hair coloring products. Easy-to-formulate, these fluid and clear emollients are compatible with all types of oily phases (vegetable oils, esters, silicone oils, mineral oils…). This asset makes them the perfect candidates for hair oil formulations. Highly compatible with vegetable oils, EMOSMART™ and EMOGREEN™ decrease the greasy effect of these oils giving a light touch to the final product.
As neutral oils, EMOSMART™ and EMOGREEN™ are not sensitive to oxidation and will not induce any formulation color or odor change as function of time.

2. XYLISHINE™

In addition of performant functional ingredient, SEPPIC, with its brand Wesource™, develops innovative active ingredients inspired by nature to reveal hair beauty. Its last product launched is XYLISHINE™: a bio-inspired moisturizing and repairing agent. This active is made of an association of natural sugars coming mainly from birch and from a brown algae: Pelvetia canaliculata.

Bio-inspiration

In hardwoods like birch, the hemicellulose, a heteropolymer mainly made of xylose, controls the water content hence the flexibility of the plant. Wesource™ made the parallel between wood and hair structure. Sugars from wood are used in XYLISHINE™ to increase hair fiber moisturization.

Pelvetia canaliculata is a common seaweed on Atlantic shores of Europe. It lives high on the shore as it is very tolerant to desiccation. This algae contains hygroscopic sugars (fucose, mannitol, volemitol…) that allow it to survive 8 days out of water. Wesource™ extracts sugars contained in Pelvetia canaliculata to protect hair against hair dehydration.

©Seppic-BiotechMarine

Performance: Hair hydration and repartition

In ex vivo studies, in rinse-off and leave-on applications, XYLISHINE ™ at 3% repairs the hair fiber and restores the deep moisture of damaged hair: up to + 30% hydration in the core of the fiber. The hair regains its shine! (in vivo tested & visible results) .

In addition, Hair surface quality was evaluated by Scanning Electron Microscope observation. This test was performed on damaged Caucasian hair tresses, in both leave-on and rinse-off conditions. A water solution of XYLISHINE™ at 3% was applied.

Figure 4 Hair fiber observation by Scanning Electron Microscope

Pictures show that XYLISHINE™ application at 3% repairs damaged hair by closing the scales of cuticles, in both leave-on and rinse-off conditions.
Scales closing increases shine and participates to the water flows control: scales are an effective barrier against dehydration.

XYLISHINE™ combines bio-inspiration and performance thanks to its hydrating and repairing properties.

3. INSPIRATION

Thanks to these innovative functional and active ingredients, SEPPIC developed trendy textures meeting the consumer demand for more sustainability.

EU07485A Natural tri-phase oil hair treatment - without silicones

©Seppic
A EMOGREEN™ L15 49,60%
B Ricinus Communis (Castor)
Seed Oil
20,00%
FLUIDANOV™ 20X 0,025%

Benzyl Alcohol and Benzoic Acid
and Dehydroacetic Acid
and Tocopherol

0,50%
Fragrance 0,40%
C Aqua/Water

Qs 100%

Sodium Chloride 0,05%
XYLISHINE™ 3,00%
Colorants (1% dilution) 0,05%

 

This natural tri-phase oil (~ 99% of natural derived content according with ISO 16128) is obtained with only natural origin oils, free-from silicone oils, with a ratio oily/aqueous phase of 70/30%. The superior phase is a non polar oil, intermediate phase is a polar oily phase, inferior phase is aqueous.

 

EMOGREEN™L15(1) and Castor Oil(2) are easy to separate because they are almost not miscible. The solubility limit is exceeded (90(1)/10(2)) in order to get both oily phases separated.

FLUIDANOV™ 20X dose is optimised to give clear separation between the oily/aqueous interface without emulsifying the phases.

EU07383 Daily Beautifying Hair serum

©Unsplash
A Aqua / Water Up to 100 %
SEPIMAX ZEN™ 0.40 %
B FLUIDIFEEL™ EASY 3.00 %
EMOGREEN™ L15 5.00 %
C XYLISHINE™ 3.00 %

Phenylpropanol and Propanediol
and Caprylyl Glycol and
Tocopherol

0.50 %
Phenoxyethanol and
Ethylhexylglycerin
1.00 %
Fragrance 0.12 %

 

FLUIDIFEEL EASY™ is SEPPIC’s new O/W emulsifier. It allows low and very low viscous formulas creation, provides an efficient stabilization and light textures. It is 100% from plant origin and allows room temperature process for time and energy savings.

The formula contains also 0.4% of SEPIMAX ZEN™. SEPIMAX ZEN™ is an innovative associative polymer. A small amount is enough to stabilize low viscous formulas produced at room temperature. It has been selected for its high efficiency in term of formula stabilization and sprayability.

Sustainability has been considered at each step of the product life cycle, from the ingredient sourcing to the product biodegradability:

Figure 5 Daily Beautifying Hair Serum - product life cycle

Regarding the performance, the formula sprayability is very good and has been measured: 70% of water’s sprayability. That make the product easy to use and allows an homogenous repartition on hair.

To finish, the formula sensoriality has also been evaluated and compared to a market formula. The benchmark is a silicone based formula that eliminates chronic frizz, smoothes, tames and hydrates hair for a shiny result. The product has been applied by hand on wet hair tresses. 20 consumers tested the formulas on both aspect and sensoriality of the product, after natural drying. Volunteers have prefered the Daily Beautifying Hair Serum for the shine, the lightness, the non-oily feel and the absence of residual on hair. 90% of them declared they would use this product at home.

Written by

Elodie Brun

Beauty Care Market Manager

Sabrina MIZAËL

Beauty Care Emollients Product Manager

Innovative ingredients such as EMOGREEN™L15, EMOSMART™V21 and XYLISHINE™ support hair care industry to develop more efficient, sensorial and sustainable products. The Natural Tri-phase Oil and the Daily Beautifying Hair Serum show that including sustainability in product development reflection is not only a challenge but can be a real source of creativity!