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Minimalist beauty, source of inspiration

Minimalist Beauty,
Source of Inspiration

Originally, minimalist cosmetics were launched to respond to the needs of sensitive skin. Currently, the number of people with reactive skin has increased due to diverse factors such as: pollution, exposure to UV...

In this context, consumers are increasingly seeking beauty care with indispensable ingredients that target the essential. It is another manner of beauty use by privileging simplicity, minimalist beauty.

The formula is refined with few ingredients and reduced INCI labeling.

This trend is growing as consumers have more and more access to cosmetic ingredient data and product composition thanks to applications or websites such as Noteo, Think Dirty, Clean Beauty, Skin Deep... offering formula decoding. Curious and up-to-date, they are more and more demanding when it comes to the composition. They require purity, transparency and simplicity, i.e. to simply be reassured. They prefer to use products containing pure natural active ingredients.

Minimalist beauty must respect our body but also our planet. Consumers are looking for natural, effective and environmentally friendly beauty products.

A formula with less than 10 raw materials is a genuine challenge for the formulator. Frugal innovation is the opportunity of doing better with less. It is a real challenge for innovation. It is mostly about leaving the beaten track: "Think out of the box".

SEPPIC has taken up this challenge with a new texture and sensory experience thanks to a unique use of ingredients and galenic form.

Promote "super ingredients" for reduced INCI labeling

1. High performance ingredients

SEPIMAX ZEN™ (INCI name: Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6) stabilizes at low doses, with high suspending power and a specific rheology.

It enables texturizing transparent formulas and adds richness and comfort when spreading as in the US20025 Shimmering Body Spray formula.

This refreshing transparent spray leaves the skin soft and radiant after drying. SEPIMAX ZEN™ has excellent compatibility with ethanol, good stability with fragrance and suspends glitter.

2. Multi-functional ingredients

SEPINOV™ EMT 10 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer) is a universal polymer: thickener-stabilizer-texturizer. Aqueous gel, cream gel, emulsion or GELTRAP™, whatever the galenic form, it makes everything possible.  It has been used in a minimalist detoxifying treatment LA60015A Jugaad Detox Cream Gel - Cold processable for the body based on a cream gel process. This formula offers sensorial benefits and an easy cold-processable manufacture.

This process combines an oily phase and an aqueous phase stabilized by the multifunctional polymer. SEPINOV™ EMT 10 stabilizes, thickens and emulsifies. The oil droplets, fragmented during mechanical stirring, are trapped between the microgel beads formed by the polymer network (Figure 1).

Figure 1 - Thickening by inverse emulsion polymerization

SEPINOV™ EMT 10 also acts as a texturizing ingredient by "sensorizing" the formula, conferring a satiny freshness that feels delightful on the skin.

In addition, this ready-to-use polymer combines ease of formulation and simplicity of production (can be added at any stage of the process, flexible for the choice of mixer thanks to its perfect shear resistance). It allows cold formulation while enabling energy and time savings (-97% and -82% respectively) compared to O/W emulsions (hot process, based on 5 kg finished product).

MONTANOV™ L (INCI name: C14-22 Alcohol & C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside) is a versatile emulsifier of natural origin, light to the touch, for all types of applications and textures: spray to butter. Moreover, it is a promoter of liquid crystals which biomimic the lipid bilayer of cellular membranes. Accordingly, it helps to stabilize the emulsion and provides the restructuring (reduction of transepidermal water loss) and moisturizing effect. In synergy with AQUAXYL™, the moisturizing effect is even greater and is extended to 48 hours after application (in vivo).

3. Sensorial ingredients

EMOGREEN™ L15 and L19 (INCI name: C15-19 Alkane) are plant-based liquid emollients (non-GMO) that offer an alternative to silicone oils. Another step forward for sustainable and responsible cosmetics, these oils are fully biodegradable and have a very low environmental impact (carbon footprint of -115% vs. silicone oils).

The PIVOT© method demonstrated that EMOGREEN™ is preferred over volatile silicone oils for the glossy appearance of the formula, the emollient sensation during application and their characteristic powdery finish.

4. Pure natural active ingredients

The AMINOVECTOR™ range is composed of amino acids grafted onto an oily vegetable chain (lipoamino acids) offering pure and effective active ingredients:

  • TIMECODE™ (INCI name: Palmitoyl Glycine) is the best ally against inflamm'aging, it targets the key markers of aging. Lifted and firm, the skin reveals a new radiance.
  • LIPACIDE™ C8G (INCI name: Capryloyl Glycine) is a dermo-protector that helps restore the skin's acid mantle. Purifying for sensitive skin, it can also be used as a preservative reducer in formulas.

The CELTOSOME™ Technology produces plant cells from halophyte plants protecting natural biodiversity

  • CELTOSOME™ ERYNGIUM MARITIMUM ST (INCI name: Eryngium Maritimum Extract) provides total cutaneous regeneration and firmer skin.
  • CELTOSOME™ CRITHMUM MARITIMUM ST (INCI name: Crithmum Maritimum Extract) provides skin lightening and brightening.

The purified Centella Asiatica Extracts come from MADAGASCAR

  • HETEROSIDES (INCI name: Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract) strengthens the skin barrier. It is the perfect active ingredient for mature skin.
  • MADECASSOSIDE (INCI name: Madecassoside) active dermo-cosmetic soothes atopic-prone skin.

Formula tips

1. The patented GELTRAP™ technology

GELTRAP™ is a gel-in-oil with a high water content created with EASYNOV™ (INCI name: Octyldodecanol & Octyldodecyl Xyloside & PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate), a W/O liquid emulsifier combining an Alkylpolyxyloside and a polymer surfactant.

The oily phase containing EASYNOV™ is added to the preformed aqueous gel (Figure 2).

 

Figure 3 - Diagram of GELTRAP™
Figure 2 - Diagram of GELTRAP™

This gel offers moisturizing and emollient properties without a greasy effect. It retains all the benefits of an oily continuous phase emulsion, especially water resistance (and sweat resistance, ideal for humid climates), and the reduction of Transepidermal Water Loss. GELTRAP™ strengthens the lipidic skin barrier, achieving the same emollient effect as classical emulsions, but with 2 times less oil (minimal cost).

The fresh texture glides on easily with maximum comfort and softness. The microscopic aspect shows a very fine formula.

This patented technology creates environmentally friendly emulsions saving energy (-98%) and time (-78%), equivalent to a 4.6 kg reduction in CO2* emissions compared to the manufacture of a 5 kg oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion using a hot process.

2. EASYNOV™ for an "Emulsion-Like" formula

The addition of the emulsifier EASYNOV™ to the first minimalist formula LA60015A provides a different texture LA60015B - Jugaad detox "emulsion-like" sensation with more thinness, richness, whiteness and better pickup than the Cream Gel base. The quick-break effect remains. This treatment provides the richness of a cold process emulsion (energy saving: -97% and time saving: -80% compared to an O/W emulsion).

Written by

Nathalie CHEVROT

Nathalie CHEVROT

Market Manager Beauty Care SEPPIC

The frugal approach is widespread in emerging countries. It boosts creativity and increasingly inspires developed countries. For further information on the subject, below are 2 videos from India explaining a frugal approach, Jugaad:

*Average of the 27 European Union countries (339 g CO2/kWh), according to "Chiffres clés du climat France et Monde édition 2013” [Key climate figures for France and the World, edition 2013]" published by www.statistiques.developpement-durable.gouv.fr.  4.6 kg CO2 is equivalent to the emissions generated by traveling 20-25 km with a small gasoline car.