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Beauty Impulse 6

“Cica” creams

Centella asiatica for today’s sensitive skins

Due to an adverse change in the skin barrier and excessive production of inflammatory mediators, sensitive skin manifests itself in redness, irritations or rashes, an itchy or dry sensation...etc. These symptoms are easily exacerbated by endogenous and exogenous factors encountered daily: temperature changes, stress, pollution, diet,tiredness, sun effects, etc. But beyond these clinical signs, this sensitivity can be more insidious, leading to a constant sense of discomfort, premature aging of the skin, and even a loss of self-confidence. Often underestimated, this physiology is taking the world by storm.

Today, a growing number of consumers perceive their skin as being sensitive and products designed for them are winning favor. In 2016, a study conducted by Mintel in the United Kingdom demonstrated that nearly one-third of consumers between the ages of 16 and 24 described experiencing skin irritation. In 2017, an NPD study conducted in the United States revealed that up to 48% of American women using facial treatments claim to have sensitive skin (versus 44% in 2015)(1) and are actively looking for products that are gentle, safe, and effective. Lastly, according to Mintel, 23% of the skincare products launched in South Korea between January and October 2017 were formulated for sensitive skins, compared with just 11% in 2014.

Fortunately, finding ways to soothe sensitive skin has been a genuine priority for a very long time. In different cultures, traditional ancient medicinal wisdom explains how to treat a variety of skin problems and soothe the most sensitive skin. Ayurveda, traditional Indian medicine, describes Pitta skin as a type of skin that is very similar to our notion of sensitive skin. Tradition recommends the use of balms made from herbs and plants such as aloe vera or Centella asiatica - commonly known as Asiatic pennywort - to soothe and heal wounds.

Inspired by this ancient use of Centella asiatica, a new type of facial care is emerging with the aim of soothing sensitive skin: these are the cica creams. On the rise since 2016, these products initially targeted irritated skin by reinforcing the skin barrier and hydrating the skin. They contain a high concentration of centella asiatica, from which the name was inspired: C for Centella and -ica from asiatica. In addition, the word cica refers to certain skin creams used in the west, such as Cicabiafine® and Cicalfate™. The use of this prefix designates gentle products that have healing properties. So cica creams offer a solution for people with sensitive skin who are looking for safe and effective products, thanks to their natural and dermo-cosmetic inspiration. Today, the cica concept is gaining currency. These products not only make it possible to regenerate damaged skin and strengthen or protect distressed skin, they also fight the wrinkles associated with mature skin. Also, creams can be rapidly evolved into new textures - such as serums, toners, face masks, cleansers, cushions, etc. – as well as into products for the body and the hands.

Seppic has a portfolio of Centella asiatica-based active ingredients that specifically address different skin needs and solutions offering innovative formulas for the most sensitive skins.

Comprehensive expertise in Centella asiatica from Madagascar

Seventy years ago, thanks to its know-how in botanical extraction, Seppic developed expertise in the active ingredients derived from Centella asiatica from Madagascar, rich in triterpene molecules, stable in their composition, and highly purified.

1. TECA™, the regenerative cure for damaged skin

Skin is considered to be our first line of defense. Every day, it is attacked and damaged and needs time to regenerate. TECA™, Titrated Extract of Centella Asiatica, is a highly purified active ingredient (95%) composed of the most powerful molecules (INCI : Asiaticoside - Madecassic Acid - Asiatic Acid) found in this plant. Tested in vitro, it soothes the skin (-60% d’IL-1α), reduces intercellular oxidation (-68%), and restores the skin’s integrity by stimulating vital proteins found in the dermis. The skin is regenerated!

 

2. MADECASSOSIDE, the break for sensitive skin

Sensitive skin suffers daily and this can impact self-confidence, mood, and self-esteem. MADECASSOSIDE is a powerful active ingredient that is highly purified (95%). Tested in vivo at 0.2%, it offers a moment of relief for sensitive skin thanks to its anti-itching (-25%), anti-redness (-70%), and anti-desquamation (-48%) properties.

3. TALADVANCE™, a radiant complexion even for the most damaged skin

In the face of temperatures and other external aggressions, the production of epidermal cells can become deregulated. This can lead to an excessive quantity of cells, which in turn leads to rough, dry skin. The skin looks dull and tired. TALADVANCE™ is a natural extract, rich in triterpenes and polyphenols (INCI : Glycerin - Aqua/Water - Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract), which ensures that the skin is protected, balanced, and lastingly radiant. After an assessment by a trained jury and in comparison with a placebo formula, it was demonstrated that TALADVANCE™ at 5% made skin look significantly fresher (+35%), more uniform (+9%), and more radiant (+58%) just 30 minutes after application.

4. HÉTÉROSIDES, lending a hand to mature skin

With age, skin loses its integrity: metabolism slows down and the skin barrier is no longer correctly maintained. The skin begins to dehydrate, sag, and wrinkle. HÉTÉROSIDES (INCI: Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract) is a multi-targeting active ingredient that strengthens the skin barrier. Tested in vivo vs. a placebo, the skin retains moisture (reduction in TEWL: -8% in 28 days) for a visibly smooth (-36% in 28 days) and anti-wrinkle (-19% in 56 days) result.

Cica formulas: demanding & innovative

In addition to active ingredients, products for sensitive skin must also meet certain requirements in terms of formulation. This is especially true since the cica concept is so popular that galenics are already multiplying (e.g., serums, cleansing gels) and being extended to other categories (e.g., body care).
SEPPIC offers "super-ingredients" that respect sensitive skin while offering innovative and comforting textures and galenics.

1. Formulation requirements: safety, emotion and efficiency

Safety
SEPIMAX ZEN™ (INCI : Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6), SEPINOV™ EMT 10 (INCI : Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer) and MONTANOV™ 202 (INCI : Arachidyl Alcohol & Behenyl Alcohol & Arachidyl Glucoside) are multi-functional ingredients, which, in low concentrations are well tolerated while offering stable formulas that feel good to the touch.

Emotion and sensation
MONTANOV™ 202 is a 100% natural nonionic O/W emulsifier. It is Cosmos, Natrue and Ecocert approved. This liquid crystal promoter enables ultra-white texture formulas, from thick lotions to fluid creams. It provides a light and soft texture and is also known for its moisturizing properties. SEPINOV™ EMT 10 also plays a texturing role that ensures a satin freshness that is very pleasant to apply.

Efficiency
SEPIMAX ZEN™ and SEPINOV™ EMT 10 are the ideal powder polymers for building the "chassis" of formulas and for meeting the challenge of stressful and difficult active ingredients.

Sensitive skin formula requirements
Sensitive skin formula requirements

2. Formula inspiration: creams and other galenics

Cream inspirations

“Perfect harmony” (EU07494 - tested in vivo) is a light, white fluid that soothes and hydrates the skin, restoring its harmony. In this formula, MONTANOV™ 202 emulsifies for a light texture and SEPINOV™ EMT 10 stabilizes the emulsion.

“Bike riding film-former” (US20092) offers comfort and protection with a lightweight texture. In particular, SEPINOV™ EMT 10 helps stabilize the lightweight emulsion, ensuring excellent pick-up.

Perfect Harmony - EU07494
Perfect Harmony - EU07494

Cica, face & body

With the “Ultra-nourishing facial wash” (EU07355), sensitive skin gets a multi-sensation shower: the hydrating gel-oil is transformed into a light foam when mixed with water, offering a gentle cleanser with the concept of oil (and no slippery residue in the shower)! Thanks to SEPIMAX™ ZEN, the resulting formulation is transparent and shiny, with the look of a voluptuous oil that is smooth to the touch but not greasy. It also stabilizes the concentrated foaming active ingredient (10%).

Ultra-nourishing facial wash - EU07355
Ultra-nourishing facial wash - EU07355

Written by

Nathalie Chevrot

Nathalie CHEVROT

Market Manager, Beauty Care SEPPIC

Maud Merlini

Maud MERLINI

Inspirational Marketing Manager, Beauty Care SEPPIC

Inspired by the Ayurvedic tradition, cica-creams are a remedy for the sensitive skin of today. SEPPIC offers a solution for the development of these products with differentiating active ingredients from Centella asiatica, while supporting innovative formulations that respect sensitive skin.