Sébastien Duprat-de-Paule, Jérôme Guilbot, Alicia Roso, Sophie Cambos,Aurélie Pierre
2018, OCL Journal, 25(5)
Practical examples showcase the key role of plant-based lipids in the design of innovative sustainable specialty ingredients. Great diversity in plant origins and chemical transformations leads to great molecular diversity and explains why bio-based lipids are involved in broad ingredient categories such as biodegradable emollients, environmentally friendly surfactants, rheology modifiers and active ingredients. Choosing lipid structure, with varying fatty chain length, saturation level and branching, determines ingredient functionality and usage, as these vary, for instance in the case of surfactants, solubilizing, wetting, foaming and emulsifying properties (oil-in-water or water-in-oil).
The lipid structure also impacts the ingredients’ final solid or liquid appearance. Now ready-to-use ingredients can be created and we can innovate with cold processable new cosmetic formulation concepts. Perhaps most importantly, optimal selection of lipid structure and composition can also drive consumer benefits in cosmetic ingredients, especially, the final sensory experience (for excipients) and biological efficacy (for active ingredients). Bio-based lipids lead to new ingredients with augmented performance and sensoriality.
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