Virginie Anchartéchahar [1], Christine Garcia [2], Carla Perez [3]
2017, 24th IFSCC conference
Introduction
Acne is a chronic inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous unit resulting from androgen-induced increased sebum production, altered keratinization, inflammation, and bacterial colonization of hair follicles on the face, neck, chest, and back by Propionibacterium acnes. Although early colonisation with P. acnes and family history might have important roles in the disease, exactly what triggers acne and how treatment affects the course of the disease remain unclear. SubliganaTM is a liquid extract titrated in polyphenols with specifics flavonoids obtained from Harungana madagascariensis leaves, an innovative magalasy plant. Serdex investigated its biological mechanism of action on P. acnes with a specific focus on the lipids peroxidation and on inflammation. SubliganaTM has also been tested on teenagers with acne prone-skin.
Methods and results
In-tubo studies
The anti-bacterial activity of SubliganaTM has been tested by contamination of the extract with a Propionibacterium acnes inoculum. The micro-organisms have been enumerated at 0, 4, 8, 24 and 48hours. The results showed a significant decrease of the proliferation of P. acnes vs control. Inhibition of lipase should prevent inflammation due to the free fatty acids produced by the lipase from starting and spreading in the dermis. The anti-lipase activity has been tested by treating a pancreatic lipase enzyme with SubliganaTM . The results showed a significant dose-dependent inhibition of the lipase activity. Blackhead occurs when the pore is open to the surface and the sebum oxidizes and turns a black brown color. Lipid peroxidation induces these blackheads. The protective effect against lipid peroxidation has been shown. Lipid peroxydation is induced by Hemin. Thiobarbituric acid is added and interacts with malonaldéhyde forming TBARs (Thiobarbituric acid reactive substances). TBARs production is evaluated by fluorescence measurement and reflects the inhibition of lipids peroxidation. SubliganaTM showed a significant inhibition of lipids peroxidation vs control. In-vitro study The anti-inflammatory effect of SubliganaTM has been tested by treating human peripheral blood mononuclear cells with the extract for 24 hours. SubliganaTM showed a significant increase of the anti-inflammatory factor IL-10 and a significant decrease of the pro-inflammatory factor IL-12 vs control.
Clinical study
SubliganaTM has been tested at 2% in a non-comedogenic cream vs placebo for 28 days in 2 groups of 22 teenagers with greasy, brilliant and acne-prone skin. SubliganaTM showed an anti-imperfection effect on teenagers with acne prone-skin.The counting of whiteheads showed a significant reduction of -34% vs placebo.
Conclusion
These studies showed that SubliganaTM has an anti-bacterial activity against P. acnes, responsible for acne. It also has an anti-lipase activity, a protective effect against lipid peroxidation and the capacity to modulate the inflammatory state.The clinical study revealed the anti-spot effect. SubliganaTM targets acne prone-skin and blemished skin, and has anti-imperfections, anti-spots and evenskin tone effects.
[1] Serdex an affiliate of Seppic Group, 1, Avenue Normandie Niemen, 64140 Lons, France [2] Seppic, 127 Chemin de la Poudrerie, BP 90228, 81105 Castres Cedex, France [3] Seppic, 819 West Nanjing Rd, Room 1508 Zhongchuang Building, Shanghai 200041, China