Sophie Cambos, Cécile Taillebois
2017, COMET congress
Cosmetic products, especially emulsions, contain a large variety of oils (ester, alkane, silicon, and vegetable oils). The right combination of the oils permits to assure the stability with a good sensorial effect of the emulsion. The most visible criteria for a good sensory experience is the spreading quality of the emulsion. The classical way to improve spreading of an emulsion is to add silicone oils (Dimethicone or Cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane) but these silicone oils don?t fit well with nowadays environment concerns.
Our target is to investigate if recently designed bio-sourced and readily biodegradable alkanes can improve the spreadability of the emulsion in a similar way to silicone oils. These renewable alkanes indeed benefits of non polar character and inert chemical structure allowing to be formulated even in extreme conditions e.g. high or low pH, or the presence of stressful ingredients. From this perspective, we compared the results achieved by different physical methods, i.e. contact angle measurement, tribology and texture analysis, on pure oils as well as on water continuous formulation bases. In a final step, a comparison with a sensory pivot analysis was made to confirm the conclusions.
Seppic, 127 Chemin de la poudrerie, Castres