Emmanuelle Mérat , Séverine Sigurani , Benoît Souyri , Cécile Taillebois , Alexandra Després 
2016, 29th IFSCC congress
In the field of cosmetic developments, consumer reviews is fundamental. The acceptability of the new product by the user is a key criterion for innovation. Especially for deodorants and antiperspirants, it requires a number of properties: efficiency, anti marks, safety, and sensory qualities such as smooth, fast drying and non-sticky dry finish. Our work consisted in optimizing a roll-on deliverable emulsion, to reduce drying time and improve the residual sensation.
A sensory test on consumers completed by an instrumental measurement, were used to assess these objectives. Our study focuses on an oil / water emulsion with low fatty phase containing an alkylpolyglucoside emulsifier, a natural polymer and an antiperspirant active (Aluminium Chlorhydrate), and the texturizing agent studied named LCE (Lithothamnium Calcarum Extract and Mannitol and Diatomaceous Earth and Zinc Sulfate). The emulsification process is direct, the stability of the emulsions is checked over time at room temperature and 45 ° C. The benchmark product is an emulsion containing Talc, Perlite & Silica. Sensory tests are carried out on 80 consumers for a guided self-assessment, in partnership with sensory platform. In parallel, the stickiness measurements are performed using a plate-plate rheometer.
Thanks to the LCE texturizing agent, added in a specific way of formulation, we get a homogeneous composition, a smooth texture, stable over time, at both temperatures. Sensory results on armpits show a drying time close to that of the benchmark as well as a drier final touch. In addition, instrumental results demonstrate a lower initial tack, lasting over time. A set of appropriate methods allowed highlighting the benefit in stability and sensoriality, opening new possibilities for developing antiperspirants and deodorants, objectifivated by relevant tests.
 Seppic, Innovation Direction, 127 Chemin de la Poudrerie B.P. 90228, 81105 Castres cedex, France  Certesens, 4 cour de l’Armorial, 37 000 Tours, France