Silicone oils are widely used in the cosmetic industry because of their unique sensory benefits and properties, such as long lasting effect in lipsticks, shine and softness in hair care products ... Silicone oils are smoothing: they give products like creams or make-up a silky, spreadable and luxurious texture.
However, their synthetic origin, lack of biodegradability, their supposed build-up effect and volatility can sometimes cause formulators to look for alternatives.
PERHAPS YOUR MARKETING ASKS YOU TO SUBSTITUTE THEM IN YOUR FORMULAS. FIND OUT HOW IN THIS ARTICLE.
What are silicones?
The term “silicone” does not apply to a specific ingredient, but rather to a large family of ingredients. They are molecules that have alternating silicon and oxygen atoms along a carbon chain or ring—silicones were originally sourced from sand in the form of silicon dioxide. Their combination, through various chemical and synthetic processes, forms polymers with large molecular structures. Depending on the nature of the organic group and the polymerisation conditions, silicone oils can have a variety of structures and viscosities, from the most fluid, through viscous, to past or wax. Most silicones can be identified by the end of their name: “-cone, -siloxane, or -conol” are often silicone oils.
Due to their structure, sensorial properties will be different from one silicone oil to another. Their degree of volatility determines the sensation of thickness they provide to the touch.
There are three main categories of silicones that are used in cosmetic:
- Small silicones like cyclohexasiloxane are liquid and volatile. This gives them good delivery properties and light and evanescent touch.
- Silicone polymers like dimethicone are long-chain molecules and can be either liquid or solid.
- Functional silicones like dimethiconol, have a different structure and properties thanks to other atoms outside of the oxygen, carbon, and silicon that they contain.
