An ultimate guide on Centella asiatica extract: ingredient, origin and benefits in cosmetics

The stems are slender, creeping stolons, green to reddish-green in color, connecting plants to each other. It has long-stalked, green, rounded apices, which have a smooth texture, with palmately netted veins. The leaves are borne on pericardial petioles, around 2 cm. The rootstock consists of rhizomes, growing vertically down. They are creamish in color and covered with root hair. 

The flowers are white or pinkish to red in color, born in small, rounded bunches (umbels) near the surface of the soil. Each flower is partly enclosed in two green bracts. The hermaphrodite flowers are minute in size, less than 3 mm (0.12 in), with five to six corolla lobes per flower. Each flower bears five stamens and two styles.

The fruit are densely reticulated, distinguishing it from species of Hydrocotyle which have smooth, ribbed or warty fruit.

Gotu kola, indian pennywort, talapretaka: an ancient herb of thousands names

Centella Asiatica has captivated the interest of botanists, traditional medicine practitioners, and wellness enthusiasts alike and is known by different names across the globe,

Commonly referred to as Gotu Kola in India, this ancient plant has been celebrated for its wide range of benefits. The name 'Gotu Kola' is derived from the Sinhalese language, where "Gotu" means "cup" and "Kola" means "leaf," aptly describing the shape of its leaves. Meanwhile, in other parts of the world, it is known as Indian Pennywort, a term that reflects its coin-like appearance and traditional use in Ayurvedic medicine. It is also known as Tiger Grass, referring to the fact that tigers might lay on it to heal from their injuries. Another intriguing name for this plant is Talapretaka, a Sanskrit term that hints at its role in ancient medicinal practices. Its storied history is sprinkled with legends and lore, such as the tale of a farmer that could heal its injuries in one night by spreading a skin preparation containing the herb. 

A young farmer reportedly fell in love with the local chief's daughter. Due to his very humble background, the father became quite irate when he proposed to her and slashed his ear with a sword. The chief, who was aware of the young man's reputation as a healer, allowed him to marry his daughter as long as he promised to return the following day with his ear fixed. The young man returned the next morning with a healed ear after using Centella asiatica on his ear for the entire night. Following the marriage, Centella asiatica's mythology began to take hold. - Laotian legend about Centella asiatica

These diverse appellations and the folklore surrounding Centella asiatica underscore its enduring significance and the timeless appeal this herb has in traditional healing practices.

Medicinal uses of Centella asiatica

Centella asiatica is renowned for its vast array of medicinal uses. Its medicinal properties have been known for more than 2,000 years and it plays a significant role in traditional Chinese medicine but also Indian and African ones.

For example, in Sri Lanka, a local proverb says that “two leaves a day keep old age away” because elephants consume it as part of their diet and their longevity is legendary. 

Benefits related to traditional uses of the herb include wound healing, leprosy treatment or mental tonic promotion. Derived extracts are already widely used in dermatology for the treatment of many skin disorders and diseases, as well as a wound healing-promoting ingredient ^[1].

Beyond topical applications, Centella asiatica is used to improve circulation and manage venous insufficiency. As a medicinal plant, it can also aid in digestive health by alleviating gastric ulcers. People often consume it in various forms, such as teas and supplements or used in cuisine either raw or in porridge, to leverage its health benefits.

Finally, the herb is also known for potential cognitive benefits, supporting memory and mental clarity.

With ongoing research, Centella asiatica potential applications continue to expand, further establishing its place in both traditional and modern science. 

Phytochemistry of Centella asiatica

To better understand the craze for this plant, we must look at its phytochemistry, the science of plant molecules. Centella asiatica contains numerous active constituents - pentacyclic triterpenes and polyphenols.

Triterpenes ensure the protection and defense of plant cells in their natural environment against bacterial, fungal and yeast attacks. Among pentacyclic triterpenes are:

• osides are glycosylated molecules (due to sugars structures) and represent a plant reserve form. Asiaticoside, Madecassoside as well as its Terminoloside isomer have been the most investigated so far, and demonstrate significant benefits on skin;

• When the plant is stressed by its natural predators, glycosylated triterpenes are hydrolyzed to get the related acid “active form”, or “genins” (i.e. aglycone triterpenes). They help to decrease the inter-cellular pH, preventing the growth of these predators, thus participating in the natural defense of the plant against bacterial, fungal and viral attacks. They also lead to an inflammatory status within these vegetal cells, but this is modulated thanks to the natural anti-inflammatory activity of the heterosides.

Thus, there is a constant balance between aglycone triterpenes and glycosylated triterpenes in the herb.

The herb also contains polyphenols, including flavonoids and dihydroxycinnamic acids, i.e. secondary metabolites known for their antioxidant properties ^[2]. Among flavonoids, glucuronides derivatives are quite unusual in plants and they are titrated and characterized by relevant analytic methods.

What are the different INCI of Centella asiatica extracts in cosmetics ?

By the year 2000, demand for Centella asiatica supply was growing considerably due to major developments with the discovery of new cosmetic applications for the plant. The market grew by 30% in eighteen years, with 10% in agribusiness, 30% sold in the pharmacy sector, 60% in cosmetics.

Skin care and hair care launches claiming to contain Centella asiatica as ingredient soar by 187% over the last 5 years - Mintel GNPD

Centella asiatica-based ingredients in cosmetics are numerous and very varied. Many are extracts of the roots, flowers, leaves and stems, purified or not. These ingredients can be listed as examples according to the non-exhaustive following list of INCI names: Centella asiatica root extract, Centella asiatica flower/leaf/steam extract, Centella asiatica extract, Centella asiatica leaf extract, Asiaticoside, Asiatic acid, Madecassoside, Madecassic acid, etc. 

Seppic portfolio is composed of 4 extracts of Centella asiatica leaves as leaves contain most of its rare molecules.

Hydrosoluble extract of Centella leaves

Taladvance™ (INCI: Glycerin, Aqua/Water, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract) is a specific hydrosoluble and preservative-free Centella asiatica leaves extract, which has been selected for its triterpenes and polyphenols composition. This composition is close to that of the native plant.

Heterosides (INCI: Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract) correspond to a specific hydrosoluble and preservative-free Centella asiatica leaves extract, which has been selected for its pentacyclic triterpenes composition, close to that of the native plant. Indeed, this high purity powder (>70%) contains from 10 to 20% Asiaticoside and from 50 to 70% Madecassoside.

Titrated extract of Centella asiatica

TECA™ (INCI: Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid), meaning Titrated Extract of Centella Asiatica, is a specific Centella asiatica leaves extract, which has been selected for its high stable composition in pentacyclic triterpenes and presents a very high degree of purity, i.e. 95%. TECA is composed of 60% of Genins and 40% of Asiaticoside.

Madecassoside

Madecassoside (INCI: Madecassoside) is a specific Centella asiatica leaves extract, whose manufacturing process allows the isolation of two isomers of Madecassoside with a purity greater than 95%.

From Centella plant to cosmetic ingredients

A question of plant's origin 

As seen previously, Centella asiatica popularity can be explained by the many medicinal and cosmetic properties provided by its wealth of useful molecules. Among all the regions where it grows, Seppic focuses its sourcing of Centella asiatica in Madagascar.

Pentacyclic triterperne saponins are the main components in Centella asiatica. They range from 1% to more than 14% of the herb, depending on the plant's origin, with madecassoside and asiaticoside being the main triterpenes in the plant ^[3]. The Malagasy Centella asiatica, so called Talapetraka, has a concentration in active molecules higher and more stable than in plants on other continents. 

Although the study of these natural substances remains largely indeterminate due to the complexity of these molecules and the many intermediate pathways, some differences in triterpenes composition between plant origin can be highlighted:

Moreover, a comparative study of Centella asiatica from Madagascar and from India showed that the level of asiaticoside determined by reversed-phase HPLC was higher in plants from Madagascar than in those from India. The Malagasy plant has a level 3 to 7 times greater than the Indian plant. So there are variations in the concentration from one geographical area to another. In general, the highest level of triterpenes is found in Madagascar and can reach more than 14%. In China, the level is between 1 and 8%, and in Nepal it is between 2.7 and 8.1 % ^[4].

Finally, some useful molecules are specific to Malagasy Centella asiatica such as terminoloside, an isomer of madecassic acid, and madasiatic acid.

Conditions of harvest

Seppic Malagasy Centella asiatica is picked in the wild. An environmental stress is necessary for this perennial to have a high triterpene content; at the opposite, when cultivated, it loses its pharmacological profile and has lower content of actives. 

The harvest period in Madagascar runs from October to March, when the genetic resource provides the largest amount of active molecules. Glycosides are sugar complexes that make up the plant's form of saponin reserves and are mainly synthesized during the wet season.

The resource is regenerated between harvests and does not require any maintenance or financial investments. Local communities pit it against agricultural resources and view it as a naturally-occurring resource.

Implementing good harvesting practices, such as selective harvesting of the largest leaves and rotating harvest areas, helps ensure the plant's sustainable use: Therefore it is not harvested continuously, but rather when the concentration in active ingredients is optimal. It is very important to observe the market's quality criteria, which encourages preservation. The roots are not gathered, for example, so that the resource can quickly regenerate properly. Rational harvesting stimulates the resource's regeneration. Seppic has worked and conducted a study with a local partner to develop analytical monitoring of the active ingredients in the plant so it can be harvested when its level of active ingredients meets specifications. 

Our responsible value chain is based on a network of collectors, sub-collectors and pickers with a traceability system from the field enabling responsible procurement at the pickers: Most of the pickers are women who need this traditional activity for supplementary income. This income increases regularly due to the development and interest in Centella asiatica. The harvest is considered to be a resource for the lean season between rice cultivation and the resulting income.

Finally, Seppic has designed a model to set up a responsible supply chain over the years, from Madagascar to our factory in France. We have anticipated the principles of the Nagoya Protocol setting up good practices for fair and equitable sharing of benefits and Seppic Lons is a member of the UEBT (Union for Ethical BioTrade), a growing movement of brands committed to sourcing with respect for people and biodiversity our natural ingredients.

Manufacturing process

For cosmetic markets, several methods exist to obtain Centella asiatica based ingredients focusing on reaching the best yield in pentacyclic triterpenoid saponins: 

• Supercritical fluid extraction
• Enzymatic pretreatment and microwave-assisted extraction
• Distillation
• Hydroalcoholic extraction

In our plant in Lons, South of France, as part of its know-how in mastering plant extraction, Seppic has patented an extraction method using an alcohol solvent to produce an extract of Centella asiatica that is rich in saponins ^[5]. 

What is Centella asiatica good for?

In the rapidly evolving world of cosmetics, the search for natural, effective ingredients that bring tangible benefits to both skincare and hair care is ever-present. Revered for centuries in traditional medicine, Centella asiatica is now making waves in modern cosmetic formulations. 

Benefits of Centella asiatica in skin care

The herb offers numerous benefits for skin care, making it a sought-after ingredient in various cosmetic products. It is particularly advantageous for those seeking anti-aging, skin integrity, and radiance solutions.

For example, Heterosides has a multi-targeting mechanism of action to reinforce the skin barrier. It has clinical benefits on anti-wrinkle, skin smoothing and water loss reduction. 

Moreover, TECA™ has demonstrated in vitro action on skin soothing, reconstruction and remodeling. Its efficacy is confirmed through a clinical trial demonstrating faster repair of damaged skin.

Taladvance™ restores and maintains the skin's homeostasis and acts on the skin's radiance for a healthy glow and supple skin.

Finally, Madecassoside soothes the skin, respects and protects the cells, improves skin barrier and moisturization, restructures and protects the dermal matrix. Moreover, in vivo, it reduces the cutaneous redness, the desquamation area and the roughness score for atopic dermatitis prone-skin. It also decreases the local PASI score, the redness, the itching sensation and improves the skin appearance for psoriasis-prone skin and increases the hydration of the stratum corneum.

Benefits of centella asiatica in hair care

Several researches have also indicated that Centella Asiatica is beneficial for hair care, despite its current popularity in skin care products.

Specifically, a study ^[6] looked into how TECA™ affected hair development. In fact, the telogen to anagene phase transition is slowed down in cases of hair loss. This process is reactivated by TECA™ to promote hair growth.

In conclusion, Centella asiatica stands as a testament to Seppic's commitment to harnessing the unique phytochemical properties of this Madagascar-origin plant. With its expertise in phytochemistry and plant extraction, Seppic optimizes the most beneficial compounds from Centella. Furthermore, the company has established a responsible supply chain by collaborating closely with local Malagasy communities, ensuring sustainable practices. Seppic's diverse portfolio of Centella extracts, all with proven efficacy, highlights its dedication to innovation and quality in the realm of natural ingredients.

^{[1] Bylka W, Znajdek-Awiżeń P, Studzińska-Sroka E, Dańczak-Pazdrowska A, Brzezińska M. Centella asiatica in dermatology: an overview. Phytother Res. 2014 Aug;28(8):1117-24.}

^{[2] Bidel L et al., Dynamics of flavonol accumulation in leaf tissues under different UV-B regimes in Centella asiatica (Apiaceae). Planta (2015), 242:545–559.}

^{[3] Hashim, P., Hamidah, S., Mohd, H.M.H., Aidawati, S., Uma, D.P., et Mohd, I. (2011). Triterpene Composition and Bioactivities of Centella Asiatica. Molecules. 16 (2): 1310‐22.}

^{[4] Voninavoko, R., Soaharin’Ny, O.R.R., Edmond, R., Harena, R., Sarah, P., et al. (2012). The Influence of Certain Taxonomic and Environmental Parameters on Biomass Production and Triterpenoid Content in the Leaves of Centella asiatica (L.) Urb. from Madagascar. Chemistry & Biodiversity, 9, pp.298,308.}

^{[5] Loiseau, A., Sene, G., and Theron, E. (2008). Method for preparing a Centella asiatica extract rich in madecassoside and in terminoloside.}

^{[6] Yeong Min Choi, Sungkwan An, Junwoo Lee. Titrated extract of Centella asiatica increases hair inductive property through inhibition of STAT signaling pathway in three-dimensional spheroid cultured human dermal papilla cells. Bioscience, Biotechnology, and Biochemistry, 2017, Volume 81, Issue 12.}