What are the challenges and needs of textured hair?
For many consumers with textured hair, the ideal hair care products give bouncy and defined curls for natural style with a long-lasting definition for longer intervals between shampoos as wash day routine is quite long and demanding. Of course, hydration and frizz control are mandatory claims.
Respect sensitive scalp and hair
The quantity of products applied, the difficult progression of sebum towards the points, detangling, ... all these daily actions sensitize the scalp and hair fiber of textured hair. As a result, it is more sensitive than straight hair and prone to breakage. It is therefore essential for formulators to create hair products that are well tolerated and non-aggressive.
To formulate a shampoo suitable for textured hair, we need to adapt it for gentle cleansing and avoid further drying of the already sensitized fiber. The ideal shampoo should therefore have an intermediate cleansing level to remove residues without drying out the fiber. Therefore, formulators should select mild and sulfate-free surfactants. Proteol™ APL HEF is a bio-inspired and a high performing amino acid-based foaming surfactant suitable for Alkyl Ether Sulfate-free formulations. It is a mild surfactant that cares for foaming formulations and the skin thanks to its good biodegradability, tolerance and elegant sensoriality.
Offer hydration to the hair
Moisturization is the key to keeping curls in tip-top shape. As we have seen, textured hair is prone to dryness because of a non homogeneous sebum repartition and to a higher fiber porosity. Textured hair can be more damaged and dry compared to straight hair. A formulator developing a range of products for textured hair needs to include at least one ingredient in each product to help retain or even reinforce the hair's internal moisture.
Xylishine™ C is a natural active ingredient from a patented complex sugar derivative associated with a bio-inspired seaweed, Pelvetia canaliculata. It improves water retention of the scalp and maintains hair cuticles tightened, avoiding water evaporation. In addition, formulators can select film-forming agents. Emogreen™ HP 40, a plant-based texturized emollient, creates a homogeneous film on the hair surface that smoothes the scales and helps retain internal moisture.
Another tip is to adapt the ratio between humectants and a polar oily phase for a quick product absorption and a deep nutrition and moisturisation.
Improve curls and coils definition
The final expectation of textured hair consumers from their hair care routine is to obtain beautiful natural curls. It means manageable well defined bouncy curls or coils with no frizz. Formulators have to use effective ingredients in conditioning and style maintenance.
Emogreen™ HP 40, natural alternative to dimethiconol based blends, has demonstrated volume control, anti-frizz and curl definition efficacy on type 3 hair thanks to its hair film forming properties.
Cationic ingredients carry a positive charge and adhere to the net negative charge of hair. They can build up on the hair and weigh the hair down. Cationic ingredients are used in the majority of curl creams. Simulquat™ HC 305, a cationic liquid polymer, meets the need of dry, damaged, hard to comb hair with conditioning performance.
How to formulate hair products for textured hair?
Sulfate-free shampoo
To formulate a shampoo suitable for textured hair, we need to adapt it for gentle cleansing and avoid further drying of the already sensitized fiber. The ideal shampoo should therefore have an intermediate cleansing level to remove residues without drying out the fiber. Therefore, formulators should select mild and sulfate-free surfactants. Proteol™ APL HEF is a bio-inspired and a high performing amino acid-based foaming surfactant suitable for Alkyl Ether Sulfate-free formulations. It is a mild surfactant that cares for foaming formulations and the skin thanks to its good biodegradability, tolerance and elegant sensoriality.
Nourishing and conditioning hair care
Textured hair is high porosity hair that leads to dryness and breakage problematics. Whether rinsed or left on, hair care products for textured hair need to be formulated with a good balance of humectants and the nature of the oily phase. Moisturizers and humectants are ingredients that help to retain moisture in the hair shaft, keeping it hydrated and healthy. Regarding oily phase, butters, esters and oils can nourish the hair. Playing on the polarity of the oily phase can help for a quick product absorption to repair the hair deeply.
Light jelly
The formulation challenge here is to select the perfect rheology modifier to obtain a light, weightless moisturizing jelly. This product has to sheath the natural texture of curls without the hair weight down and cardboard effect than styling gel with PVP may have.
Solagum™ Tara is a non ionic natural gum compatible with cationic ingredients currently used in hair care. It creates an unctuous, smooth & generous texture with good consistency for a nice pick up, without stringy effect. It has a moisturizing effect for up to 8 hours and helps to control frizz.
Natural oil & serum
Textured hair consumers use as finisher products natural oil blend or serums. Natural oils, like avocado or coconut oil, can help nourish and define curls. Other esters or alkanes can help to smooth the hair cuticle, making it more manageable and less prone to tangling while bringing natural shine to the hair.
Emogreen™ L15 is a plant-based emollient that offers an ideal alternative to volatile silicone oils. This high purity vegetable alkane gives a lightweight and non-greasy feel and improves hair shine.
Hair products for textured hair on the market continue to evolve as everyone decides to appreciate or rediscover their natural hair texture. Efficacy is still the number-one consumer demand. As we have seen, tips to succeed are to focus on keeping inner hair moisturizing with conditioning and repairing formulas and improve curls and coils definition. Textures have to be well adapted to these curly hair and formulas must be well-tolerated for these sensitive hair. With hair skinification trend, formulators can innovate by offering more sensorial galenics inspired from skin care and increase eco conception of the formulas.
