How to formulate eco-conscious emulsions?

  • February 13, 2024
  • 4 minutes of read time

How to formulate eco-conscious emulsions?

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Nowadays, consumers are looking for more than just naturality. When we talk about eco-conscious cosmetics, the first idea that comes to mind is packaging. However, the formula and the selection of the ingredients can participate a lot in this reflection. It means for you to choose ingredients according to more various criterias such as biodegradability, origin and social impact but to think as well about how to formulate with perhaps minimalist formulas.


Discover our formula booklet with MONTANOV™ range

How to define an eco-conscious emulsion?

Eco-designing approach when formulating an emulsion will probably cause you to ask yourself many questions. In addition to adapt to the needs of the market (consumer awareness and demands) and to the products trends (in terms of formulas, claims, galenic), you will have to select ingredients according to various criterias:

  • the biodegradability and ecotoxicity of ingredients for rinse-off formulas and suncare products, to reduce the impact of end-of-life products,
  • the origin of ingredients to assess the environmental and social responsibility of the supply chain,
  • the manufacturing process of the ingredient to support the ressources reduction such as energy or water, to promote the reduction of greenhouse gas emissions as well as the waste production,
  • the added care benefits of the ingredients, to design efficient minimalist formulas,
  • and of course, the naturality and the labels (fair trade, vegan, Cosmos, RSPO …) of the ingredients for better impact on sustainability or social impact.

Favoring renewable and sustainable sources and reducing the environmental footprint throughout the value chain are central to our innovation mission. Our researchers work every day to design and improve our products and integrate all environmental aspects. While green chemistry has encouraged the development of processes that are more respectful of people and the environment, Seppic adopted its 12 principles early on with, for example, our MONTANOV™ emulsifiers range, based on sugar chemistry. To formulate eco-conscious emulsions, this O/W emulsifiers range is the perfect formulator's ally. 

First, manufactured in France, with renewable raw materials and according to the green chemistry pillars, our emulsifiers are since the beginning 100% natural origin content (according to ISO 16128 norm), COSMOS, NATRUE, and readily biodegradable (according to OECD 301 methodology). They fully meet today's customer's expectations for natural and sustainable formulas, through RSPO certification

To take our approach a step further, we recover the waste generated by the production of MONTANOV™. This glucoside sludge is treated by methanisation to produce biogas, which in turn is converted into electricity, and a digestate that is used as a natural fertiliser. In this way, 93% of this waste is recycled and CO2 emissions are reduced by 100 tonnes per year compared to a conventional process.

Figure 1: methanization, a drawing to keep it simple Figure 1: methanization, a drawing to keep it simple

Thanks to their structural power, MONTANOV™ meet the needs of today's minimalist formulas. The MONTANOV™ range creates biomimetic textures packed with liquid crystals, particularly stable even under extreme conditions (temperature, time to transport, vibrations, ...) and lead to a slower and more controlled actives delivery through the skin. Mimicking the natural organization of lipids in the stratum corneum, the lamellar liquid crystals melt into it to reinforce the skin barrier. More than just excipients, these excellent liquid crystals promoters can create active textures.


Can you combine eco-friendly and sensoriality ?

A more eco-friendly emulsion does not mean to renounce on efficiency or sensoriality! Nowadays, responsible solutions exist to help formulators on a daily basis to combine the different requirements of marketing briefs.

MONTANOV™ 202 creates a liquid crystal lamellar structure which gives effective, continuous and long-lasting hydration for up to 5 hours, strengthening the skin’s lipid barrier and in turn, helping to slow down Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL).  Thus, it will participate in the emulsion's moisturizing efficacy.

In terms of use, the MONTANOV™ range offers multiple sensoriality and applications. You can use them for all types of consistency (sprays, milks, creams, butters, waxes), for all types of texture (light and evanescent, melting or rich), for all types of skin and for all types of application (Skin care, Make-up, Sun care and Hygiene).

montanov_range_seppic Figure 2: a whole range for multiple sensoriality & applications

To demonstrate this great versatility, we’ve created very simple formula chassis using a different ratio of MONTANOV™ 202 as the emulsifier, caprylic capric triglyceride and shea butter in the oily phase, 0.5% of SOLAGUM™  AX as thickener and a preservative. Thus, we obtain different eco-designed emulsions with different textures and viscosities. MONTANOV™ 202 has the particularity to create glossy emulsions with a light skin feel, even with the addition of heavy oils or butters, and a matte finish on the skin.

versatility of textures obtained with MONTANOVTM 202 Versatility of textures obtained with MONTANOVTM 202

You’ve learned in this article how you can ecodesign emulsions by choosing the right ingredients. The range of MONTANOV™ is showing reduced environmental impacts throughout their life cycle. Sourced from renewable raw materials they have an ideal naturality and biodegradability profile, and demonstrate an optimized impact on the environment thanks to the biomass waste recycling. These emulsifiers will help you to develop minimalist emulsion formulas thanks to the biomimetic textures obtained from liquid crystal that bring added care benefits. The MONTANOV™ range offers the ability to achieve a wide variety of textures and viscosities while being more respectful of the environment. Would you like to try it?

Discover our formula booklet with MONTANOV™ range

To remember
  1. Eco-design approach takes in consideration many criterias such as origin, biodegradability, production process, …
  2. Eco-designed emulsifiers also need to be easy to use and offer multiple sensoriality and cosmetic applications
  3. MONTANOV™ are suitable for eco-conscious O/W emulsifiers