How to choose the appropriate emollient for skin care?

Share
  • May 11, 2023
  • 5 minutes of read time

How to choose the appropriate emollient for skin care?

Body care
Face care
Sun care

Emollients are commonly used ingredients in cosmetic products to help make your skin soft and smooth. They are usually lipids (fats), oils, silicones, or chemical additives. They’re key in the formulator’s ingredient selection process and can bring additional appreciable care benefits. It is not easy for formulators to choose the right emollients according to the many expectations of the product brief.

DISCOVER OUR TIPS FOR SELECTING THE RIGHT EMOLLIENT FOR YOUR BRIEF.

 

 

What is an emollient?

Emollients are refatting agents added to a cosmetic formulation to provide the skin with the lipids it needs. They increase the moisture content of the skin by reducing evaporation, providing it with a soft, smooth and non-greasy feel. That’s why they are often contributors to moisturization. Emollients are a class of ingredients with a wide variety of molecular structures: from vegetal oils and butters, through mineral oils, to fatty acids or glycols.

During desquamation, the skin might appear flaky and rough as the dead skin cells leave the surface of the epidermis. Emollients fill in the empty space between these desquamating cells, as well as help to flatten curled edges of cells. This creates a smoother, softer surface that allows for more light refraction, therefore making the skin also appear brighter. This effect is only temporary and stops once the emollient is cleansed away.

When choosing emollients, formulators are sensitive to different criteria such as performance, skin feel, color and odor, origin of the ingredient, compatibility and cost.

 

How to improve skin comfort?

Skin comfort is one of the biggest market demands as an increasing number of consumers declare to have sensitive skin: it has now become a worldwide concern.

EMOGREEN™ L19 is a readily biodegradable, 100% plant-based and non-polar emollient well known for its outstanding sensory properties close to volatile silicone oils. EMOGREEN™ L19 addresses very dry and sensitive skin needs by two different actions: on the skin, it improves the aspect, renews the sensation of comfort and in the jar, it allows to formulate cosmetic products with a lower quantity of preservatives.

EMOGREEN™ L19 provides low friction & high gliding effect whatever the spreading speed.  A low friction coefficient also means an easy spreading on the skin with no irritating or no damage further.

An ally to answer sensitive skin needs

EMOGREEN™ L19 provides low friction & high gliding effect whatever the spreading speed.  A low friction coefficient also means an easy spreading on the skin with no irritating or no damage further.

C-Cube images analysis show that 10% of EMOGREEN™ L19 incorporated in an O/W emulsion improves visibly the aspect of very dry skin (<30 a.u.) after 28 days. C-Cube images analysis show that 10% of EMOGREEN™ L19 incorporated in an O/W emulsion improves visibly the aspect of very dry skin (<30 a.u.) after 28 days.

Moreover, an expert clinical evaluation demonstrated that an O/W emulsion containing 10% of EMOGREEN™ L19 significantly improves the aspect of the skin: it looks more moisturized (+10%), softer (+15%) and smoother (+11%).

An help to formulate gentle products

In addition, Seppic tested the capacity of EMOGREEN™ L19 to lower the quantity of preservative required to reach preservation criteria A (according to European Pharmacopoeia) in a cream-gel formula. The in vitro study showed that thanks to its specific non polar structure, EMOGREEN™ L19 is significantly helping to lower the amount of preservative needed.

A real formulation ally to design more gentle products dedicated to sensitive skin!

In addition, Seppic tested the capacity

How can emollients answer consumer trends?

Sustainability

Sustainability in the personal care market has been rising for many years and challenges cosmetic formulators. New generations of oils, launched recently, differing by their manufacturing process and their origin, are now alternatives to mineral oils and silicone oils (which are classical emollients used in cosmetic products) for a more environmental friendly cosmetic industry.  With now four references 100% renewable plant based (100% natural origin content according to ISO 16128) and responsible (non-GMO, ISCC certified), EMOGREEN™ range, unique high purity alkanes, is a conscious alternative to silicone and mineral oils. They offer a very good biodegradability profile(1) while silicones are known to have a poor biodegradability(2).

Sensorial textures

EMOGREEN™ is also part of the trend of beauty oils with sensorial textures that consumers increasingly appreciate.

EMOGREEN™ L15 (C15-19 AlkaneC15-19 Alkane) Fresh & gliding sensation, powdery after feel, immediate matte effect on the skin
EMOGREEN™ L19 (C15-19 AlkaneC15-19 Alkane) Fresh & gliding sensation, soft finish
EMOGREEN™ HP40 (C15-19 Alkane, Hydrogenated Polyfarnesene ) Comfortable  & texturizing, smooth & non greasy
EMOGREEN™ C69 (C15-19 Alkane, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate) Soft, extra-comfortable and powdery veil



Using one or several EMOGREEN™ grades allow you to create various kinds of sensorial texture, from more vanishing to more present finish, giving the product its personality. The playtime can be adjusted by mixing different emollients with different spreading and gliding.

Minimalist beauty

Minimalist beauty is a trend evolving because of the consumer's request for more simplicity, naturality and transparency. It makes formulas ingredient lists shorter, beauty routines lighter. Versatile, functional ingredients with added benefits are a must for formulators.

EMOGREEN™ L19 shows a significant firming effect after 1 and 6 hours after a single application and delivers a prolonged firming effect after 6 hours. It also shows significant effect improving the skin moisturization aspect, softness and smoothness after 28 days. A real ally for formulators to design minimalist formulas!

 

We have seen that choosing the right emollient is a mix of different factors to take into account: technical, sensory, marketing. EMOGREEN™ L19 is more than just a nice-to-the-touch oil: it is the perfect emollient for formulators to sublimate skin care formulas.

Discover our formulas with EMOGREEN™ L19

To remember
  1. Emollients are refatting agents that can improve skin comfort of dry and sensitive skins
  2. Emollients can answer to consumer trends such as sustainability, highly sensorial textures, minimalism
  3. Today, formulators have easy-to-use, versatile emollients with skincare benefits

Source

EMOGREEN™ L15 & L19 are readily biodegradable and EMOGREEN™ HP40 is inherently biodegradable (according to the OECD 301B protocol)

Chandra, G. (1995). A Review of the Environmental Fate and Effects of Silicone Materials in Textile Applications.

Related articles