Formulating deodorants: tips & inspiration

  • May 4, 2023
  • 4 minutes of read time

Formulating deodorants:

tips & inspiration

Body care

The global deodorant market represents only 4.29% of the global Personal care market in 2021. However it shows a growth value on all continents. North America, India and MEA have the best growth value and exceed +8%.

Boosted by consumers looking more and more for ethical and environmental claims and concerned with respect for the skin, its average annual growth for these next five years is estimated at +7.1%.

A fresh take on deodorants is born.

Brands have well understood it, deodorant is once again back in the spotlight! Without taboo, it officially has its place in a beauty routine.


Sprayable textures, a breath of fresh air

Not surprisingly, aerosols represent the largest market share in terms of turnover and sales volumes. However, their growth isn't what it used to be, especially because of their important proportion of propellant gases and silicones. Indeed, these ingredients are criticized for their environmental impact and their regulatory constraints. This is how this format gradually gives way to cleaner solutions.

Without compromising on ease of use, texture and sensoriality, compressed formats and pump formats are in demand.

The combination of MONTANOV™ L, an emulsifier for biomimetic active textures and SIMULGEL™ NS or SIMULGEL™ INS 100, an easy-to-use thickening agent, makes it possible to formulate super-sprayable emulsions with a soft and light touch.

Spray deodorant (EU07369)

Roll on textures, a format that meets the search of more naturalness

The roll on is a classic format widespread on the market that evolves with time. Always in search of more naturalness, we use more and more active ingredients of natural origin that can disturb the stability of the formula. They are called “stressful active ingredients”.

To stabilize an emulsion containing triethyl citrate, a stressful deodorant active ingredient of natural origin, we recommend the combination of FLUIDIFEEL™ EASY, FLUIDANOV™ 20X and SOLAGUM™ AX. And if we want to formulate with zinc oxide, a stressful antiperspirant active ingredient of natural origin, the duo SEPIMAX ZEN™, a film-forming polymer with suspensive properties and SENSANOV™ WR, an O/W emulsifier that brings resistance to water and ensures a good efficiency.

Soft natural deodorant (EU07733)

Disruptive textures inspired by waterless beauty

The stick, formerly forgotten in favor of other formats, presents the best growth in terms of sales volume and turnover between 2020-2021. As for the thick cream and balm formats, which are still not widespread, they meet the growing needs of consumers for products containing less water. On the other hand, thanks to the new gestures related to their use, they are more part of a well-being ritual where you take the time to apply your deodorant as you would do for a skin care product.

Without compromising on the stability and the melting effect when applying these waterless formats, MONTANOV™ 202 is the O/W emulsifier, creator of active textures which acts as a texturizer, providing stability and hydration. Regarding the balm, we combine it with SEPILIFE™ NUDE and SOLAGUM™ TARA to reinforce the stability and provide viscosity. While for the stick, it is associated with anhydrous texturizing agents, without soaping effect, such as LANOL P.

Soft deodorant balm (EU07774)    Natural harmony deodorant (US20169)

Enhance sensory experience for more pleasure

Silicones such as dimethicones and cyclopentasiloxanes are widely appreciated for their light and dry skin feel after application. However, their use is controversial and it becomes necessary to find a more sustainable alternative that is also effective. Thanks to consumer and panel studies that have been conducted, it has been proven that with the EMOGREEN™ and EMOSMART™ ranges, we obtain the sensory profiles identical to those of silicones. Both biodegradable, EMOSMART™ L15 is designated as the alternative to cyclic silicones, while EMOGREEN™ L19 is the solution of natural origin and biosourced that specifically replaces low viscosity dimethicones. Thanks to these two grades, it is possible to maintain both efficiency and sensoriality in silicone-free deodorants.

Deodorant balm (EU07762)

Tips to get a good stability with aluminum salts

Aluminum salts are the typical antiperspirant active ingredients used in deodorants to tighten pores. Thanks to this property, they reduce sweat production. However, as they are stressful ingredients, they can impact the stability of the formula. To solve this problem, it is recommended to formulate with a gum that effectively stabilizes cationic anti-perspirant active ingredients by providing viscosity, such as SOLAGUM™ TARA. When 10% aluminum salts are required in the formula, it can also be combined with SEPIMAX ZEN™ to boost the stability of the formula at acid pH. MONTANOV™ L or MONTANOV™ 202 are therefore recommended as O/W emulsifiers compatible with antiperspirant active ingredients for a light and stable texture.

The runner’s must-have anti-perspirant care (EU07483)

The texture, and specifically its sensoriality, improves the experience, but a deodorant that is not efficient has no place in a toiletry bag or in a handbag. What to know about armpits, how to take care of them and fight effectively against bad odor? Here are the next topics to discover now on our blog.

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The right deodorant active ingredients to take care of armpits