Alicia Roso [a], Mickael Puginier [a], Mathilde Bergal [a], Frederic Nunzi [b], Alain Alonso [c]
2021, Journal of Dermatology and Skin Science
Considering all topical applications, products target very different body areas including mucosa, healthy or impaired skin with many specific characteristics in the epithelium composition, structure and barrier functionality. In vitro reconstructed human tissue models are recognized as being sensitive and reliable in preclinical studies. On top of validated methods for skin irritation, new and predictive experimental protocols can be designed to address specific applications. The objective of this study was therefore to investigate the behavior of ingredients with a well-known tolerance profile for specific applications using 3D human reconstructed models: gingival and vaginal focusing on mucosa tolerance, “immature” epidermis intended to be closer to baby skin, and a fourth epidermis model with a physically impaired barrier function. Ingredients with a key function were applied at usual doses and compared to controls and formulation benchmarks to challenge the predictivity of the models. The analysis of the results of each in vitro model demonstrated their greater sensitivity compared to the standard reconstructed human epidermis, making it possible to evaluate the tolerance of ingredients and select a well-tolerated dosage according to the local application area. The multiparametric approach designed for the “immature” and “impaired” epithelia models enriched basic irritation information with cellular, morphological and functional effects evaluations. It was therefore possible to identify some infra-clinical reactions and study the ingredient mechanisms.
[a] Seppic, 50 boulevard National, CS 90020, 92257 La Garenne Colombes Cedex, France
[b] Groupe IDEA Lab - Site Montesquieu, 5 rue Jacques Monod, 33652 Martillac, France
[c] EPISKIN, 4 rue Alexander Fleming, 69007 Lyon, France