Shrubby everlasting cells, an innovative and eco responsible new cosmetic active ingredient

  • December 8, 2021
  • 2 minutes of read time

Shrubby everlasting cells, an innovative and eco responsible new cosmetic active ingredient

E. Le Gélébart, M. Menguy, J.Fouilland , E. Causin, C. Bize, R. Laville, C. Hamon-Delâge

COSM'ING 2021, Poster session

Helichrysum stoechas is a drought-tolerant plant protected in several french regions (1), it leaves in fragile ecosystems like rocky area or in dune environment (2) and this plant is adapted to salt exposed area.

Plant cell culture have many advantages, allowing us to manufacture reproducible biomasses in controlled condition avoiding seasonal variations, giving us the possibility to overexpress some interesting specialised metabolites. 

Since a single leave, or any small part of one plant is required to initiate, this biotechnology has a negligible impact on the environment and biodiversity (3), making possible the valorisation of rare or vulnerable species like Helichrysum stoechas. Furthermore plant cell culture has a reduced water and carbon footprint.

Helichrysum stoechas dedifferentiated cell cultures were analysed in order to obtain a phytochemistry profile of cells and culture medium after cultivation (extracellular medium).

Phytochemical profiles were compared with the whole plant, showing that our culture was different, with interesting compounds in the polar, amphiphilic and apolar fraction. We also demonstrated that phenolic compounds found in the culture medium were different from those observed in cells. 

In this phytochemistry evaluation, we decided to valorise both cells and of their extracellular medium via a High Pressure Homogenisation. This process applies high pressure to the culture causing cell lysis and the release of compounds contained in the intracellular space. 

Besides all the benefits relative to the obtention of a wide array of compounds from all polarities, the manufacture of our product is responsible for very few wastes since 100% of the culture is valorised.

 In vitro and in vivo efficacy were demonstrated, showing the restoration of the barrier function, to help the resolution of inflammation via a sequence of biological mechanisms that we called Inflamm’DrynessTM which finally lead to the increase of epidermal moisturization thus bringing balance and relief to dry skin.

Seppic Research & Innovation, Paris La Défense, La Garenne Colombes