Seppic addresses hybrid make-up working on foundations with hydrophilic pigments.

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  • October 26, 2022
  • 2 mins of read time

Seppic addresses hybrid make-up working on foundations with hydrophilic pigments.

Nowadays, the make-up market is undergoing a revolution with consumer demand for more care with the “skincarisation” trend. Skincare influences make-up regarding new textures and care inspiration. To create sensorial textures, inspired by skin care (O/W foundation, cream gel, …) involving external water phases, formulators need Hydrophilic Coated Pigments to optimize foundation coverage and achieve good make-up performance.

To answer this trend, Seppic has challenged its polymers and emulsifiers to obtain compatibility data with hydrophilic pigments in powder form and in dispersed liquid form. The results will help formulators to choose the suitable products and  build nice textures with this kind of pigment. Seppic has also developed formulas to inspire make-up formulators and tested some chassis regarding no-transfer and coverage.

From polymers to emulsifiers, many Seppic ingredients have a good compatibility with tested hydrophilic pigments (powder form with different coating or liquid dispersion) in cream-gel and in emulsion. Among the polymers tested:

  • SEPIMAX ZENTM(Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6), the best performing polymer
  • SOLAGUMTM AX (Acacia Senegal Gum and Xanthan Gum), the best performing natural polymer 
Seppic-new-datas-foundations-figure1 Figure 1 - Microscopic observations confirm observed compatibility differences at 0,5%AM of polymers

Various polymers give good performance results too, such as SEPINOV™ EMT 10 (Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer), SEPIPLUS™ S (Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer and Polyisobutene and PEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Cononut Ether), SEPIPLUS™ 400 (Polyacrylate-13 and Polyisobutene and Polysorbate 20) & SIMULGEL™ NS (Hydroxyethylacrylate/Sodium AcryloyldimethylTaurate Copolymer and Squalane and Polysorbate 60 ). Seppic polymers allow the formulation of O/W foundations in emulsion form with the possibility to play with the percentage of polymers and emulsifiers for a wide range of viscosity.

For emulsifiers, several ingredients are performing depending on the requested sensoriality: SENSANOV™ WR (C20-22 Alkyl Phosphate and C20-22 Alcohols), MONTANOV™ 202 (Arachidyl Alcohol and Behenyl Alcohol and Arachidyl Glucoside), FLUIDIFEEL™ EASY (Lauryl Glucoside and Myristyl Glucoside and Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate) … Seppic has solutions ranging from comfortable to high natural foundations, from thick to fluid textures.

As consumers are increasingly looking for no-transfer and high coverage efficacy, Seppic has done some measurement in emulsion chassis. Our simple formulas are non-transfert like a W/Si market benchmark and obtained better results than a water based foundation benchmark

Seppic-new-datas-foundations-figure2 Figure 2 - Measurement of coverage and non-transfer of simple emulsions with various polymers compared to market benchmarks

To discover what hybrid foundation could be, try Seppic’s Natural tinted foundation (formula EU07556), an O/W emulsion with 15% of hydrophilic pigments. This balancing natural emulsion brings a high coverage without transfer to unify skin complexion.