Seaweeds, the new trend in hair care ingredients

Hair care

In the age of natural cosmetics, consumers are looking for environmentally-friendly, innovative and high-performance ingredients in their hair care products. Having already conquered the skin care market, seaweed-based ingredients are now entering the hair care market with claims such as anti-dandruff, hydration, prevention of grey hair, hair fiber repair and scalp protection. Seaweed is heralded as the next trendy natural ingredient for hair care.

WHAT ARE THE INTERESTING PROPERTIES OF SEAWEED FOR HAIR CARE? WHICH SPECIES OF ALGAE TO USE AND FOR WHICH CLAIMS?

Seaweeds, why can it be the next active ingredient in hair care?

A natural and well-known ingredient that's riding the wave of the sea's benefits

Seaweeds are among the oldest organisms on the planet, with blue-green algae (cynaobacteria) dating back 3.8 billion years. AlgaeBase has listed 50,589 species of living algae. All these species have specific mechanisms of action and survival, offering a variety of chemical compositions. Consumed by a wide range of crops, algae are a veritable vegetable treasure: they contain minerals, trace elements, vitamins and proteins. Used for decades in cosmetics with the rise of thalassotherapy, seaweed is increasingly present in our cosmetic products.

This real trend in marine cosmetics offers a big source of inspiration for cosmetics formulators.

An ingredient that answers to the skinification trend in hair care

Hair “skinification” refers to the tendency to treat the scalp and hair like the skin on the face by adapting skincare routines and ingredients. It emphasizes the importance of taking care of scalp health to achieve healthy hair and improve overall appearance. The hair product takes on a new dimension: it moves from a functional role to one of expert care, with ingredients and promises borrowed from high-performance face ranges.

Products are becoming increasingly expert in their skincare approach and associated claims. In terms of active ingredients, we're seeing the arrival of hyaluronic acid, salicylic acid, vitamins, collagen, pre- and probiotics, as well as seaweed, in our hair care products... Seaweed is a flagship ingredient in face and body care, with its proven efficacy well known to consumers, bringing an image of reassurance and expertise to hair care products.

Marine ingredients are said to be the next natural, renewable hair care ingredient. According to GNPD, marine ingredients are only claimed in 3% of the global hair care launches in 2023, but compare to 2017, there were twice more hair care launches claiming a marine ingredient in 2023. However, 29% of US consumers aged 18-24 perceive them as trendy¹, showing growth opportunities in this space.

Although 71.9% of hair care products containing seaweed claim moisturizing properties, seaweed extracts have numerous properties for the care and protection of scalp and hair.

What are the benefits of seaweeds in hair care?

The different types of algae

Seaweed comes in different sizes, divided into two groups: micro-algae, which are just a few microns in size, and macro-algae, which can grow up to 70 cm long. Then macro algaes are su-divided in different colors: red, brown, green and blue-green.

Brown macroalgae are generally rich in hydrocolloids (special algae sugars), polyphenols, iodine and pigments. Green macroalgae are generally rich in minerals (Ca-Mg-PH-), storage polysaccharides (ulvan, glucuronic acid, fucoidan) and chlorophyll-a. Red algae are particularly rich in phycocolloids (notably agar agar, carrageenans), phycobiliproteins, carotenoids and B vitamins.

They are all expected to secrete numerous bioactives and secondary metabolites such as terpenoids, alkaloids and polyphenols.

Benefits for the scalp

Beautiful hair is a result of a healthy scalp and restored hair fibers. Consumers are increasingly aware of the link between hair quality and scalp health. 93% of Chinese hair care consumers are aware that scalp care can improve the appearance and health of their hair³.

Alariane™ CV is an extract of Alaria esculenta, also known as the “Irish wakame”. This brown algae up to 2 m long and 10-15 cm wide, is a traditional food along the far northern coasts of the Atlantic Ocean, eaten for its excellent health properties as well as for its binder/detoxifier effect against heavy metals2. Alariane™ CV has a protective action on the hair follicle against inflammation induced by Cadmium, and helps to preserve scalp function and maintain healthy hair. The in vitro data have also shown the protection of lipids peroxidation after a UVB stress.

Xylishine™ C is a natural active ingredient derived from a patented complex of sugar derivatives recognized for their moisturizing action in skin care, associated with a bio-inspired algae harvested in France (Brittany), Pelvetia canaliculata. It is well-known for its exceptional resistance to dehydration thanks to its sugar-rich composition (Fucose, mannitol, volemitol). Seppic’s laboratories have shown that Xylishine™ C helps to restore the scalp by increasing its ceramide levels by 27% and strengthening its skin barrier by 42% .

Bioenergizer™ P BG PF is a mixture of panthenol, a pro-vitamin B5 and of two brown seaweed extracts, the channeled wrack (Pelvetia canaliculata) and the oarweed (Laminaria digitata). These two brown seaweeds from Atlantic Ocean, are rich in sugars and minerals. Among brown seaweeds, the channeled wrack is one of the most stress-tolerant species. To protect itself vs UVB, it generates efficient contents of both phenols and carotenoids related to a strong antioxidant protection. Finally, the oarweed was traditionally used as a fertilizer and spread on the land. Nowadays, it is mainly used for alginate extraction and incidentally as a vegetable.This active ingredient trio presents therefore interesting properties for scalp nutrition to boost hair follicles.

Action on the hair fiber

As, it also helps repair the surface appearance of damaged cuticles by 82%, Xylishine™ C increases the shine of all hair types, curly or straight (+7%³), curls are better defined (+16%³) and hair is softer to the touch (+7%³). About anti-frizz and volume control on curly hair, Xylishine™ C demonstrates visible immediate long-lasting improvement of hair in both standard and extreme climate conditions.

Trends in skincare and clean beauty are paving the way for the growing use of seaweed in hair care. Consumer interest in marine ingredients focuses on their perceived safety and efficacy. The bioactive metabolites produced by algae offer a range of natural benefits for hair and scalp. Algae are undoubtedly a source of inspiration for the cosmetics industry, especially as many species have yet to be discovered and studied for cosmetic applications.

To remember

Unlock the potential of algae to pioneer the future of haircare
Algaes are perceived as safe and effective by consumers
Seaweed, rich in proteins, minerals and vitamins, has interesting properties for protecting and caring for the scalp and hair.

_Sources:

_{¹Mintel, 2023

² Bailey, Susan E., Trudy J. Olin, R.mark Bricka, and D.dean Adrian. “A Review of Potentially Low-cost Sorbents for Heavy Metals.” Water Research 33.11 (1999)

³KuRunData/Mintel, november 2020}