How to answer to the Dermocosmetics trend?
Created in the 70's by Pierre Fabre, a pharmacist in France, the term “dermocosmetics” has come a long way. Within the past decade, dermocosmetics have shifted from the basic needs of skin to preventive health concerns and wellness.
Today, consumers are looking for cosmetic products that rely on scientific claims and underscore healthy living trends.
Today, “dermocosmetics” remains a marketing concept, there is no standard or legal definition of it. However, we can say that dermocosmetics are formulated to preserve the health and beauty of the skin and hair. Still defined as cosmetics, these products answer to claims such as moisturizing or treating skin problems like excess of sebum, redness or dermatite with an image of safety and efficacy. The ingredients used, the positioning and associated claims define the category of the finished product and its regulation (cosmetics, OTC, quasi drug, …).
The products in this category are often recommended by dermatologists or sold in health distribution channels (pharmacies, doctor’s offices, medispas, …).
The global dermocosmetics skin care products market size was valued at USD 57 billion in 2020 and is expected to grow at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR1) of 7.3% from 2022 to 2030 to achieve 115.2 billion dollars2.
Demand for safety, transparency and a stronger reliance on medical guidance have reinforced the need for “clinical” efficacy and elevated levels of trust. Dermocosmetics have directly benefited from this momentum, characterized by a “back to basics” approach to beauty that relies on scientific claims and underscores healthy living trends.
Moreover beyond skin comfort, consumers are today searching for well being and empowerment. From products with basic actions, dermocosmetics now help sensitive skins to solve actual discomfort and prevent more damage in the future.
The Covid-19 played a role in this interest for dermo-category as the demand for safe, therapeutic and trusted products has increased.
The increasing awareness and concern for skin sensitivity are a key growth opportunity for dermocosmetics,which tend to be segmented by skin type or skin condition. Choosing the right ingredients based on skin tolerance profile is key. To help customers select ingredients depending on their needs, Seppic provides complete toxicology dossiers for its ingredients (good tolerance at use level, no toxicity warning, non CMR,...). For some ingredients, Seppic’s Research & Innovation team goes even further and works on innovative methods to evaluate their effects on sensitive skin with a unique model of impared skin.
The main objective of dermocosmetics is to offer efficient and sensorial solutions for skin challenges. Bringing together various expertises, from excipients to active ingredients, Seppic helps respond to the challenges of dermocosmetic formulations. To help customers select the most efficient ingredients, Seppic conducts in vivo (or clinical) studies to demonstrate the efficacy of our active ingredients, or a physico-chemical effect on the skin surface for our excipients under real-life use conditions.
For each most common conditions addressed by dermocosmetics, we have solutions:
AQUAXYLTM, our combination of sugars derivatives, fights extreme thirst for a short & long term moisturization. MONTANOVTM 202, our active O/W emulsifier, brings softness and comfort to the skin through the promotions of liquid crystals structure.
ANTILEUKINETM 6, a bioinspired extract of Laminaria Ochroleuca, shares its secrets of internal balance and adaptation against external stresses. RosaboraTM restores the normal circulation to avoid persistent redness on rosacea-prone skin. And finally CERAMOSIDESTM HP, a plant-based complex of ceramides, similar to ceramides found in the skin and rich in essential fatty acids omegas, improves the complexion making it fresher and more homogeneous.
SENSANOVTM WR, a O/W emulsifier, forms an immediate non occlusive matte film at the surface of the skin. LIPACIDETM C8G, a glycine biovector and skin acidifying agent, protects the skin and helps maintain its ecosystem.
SIMULGELTM NS, a liquid polymeric thickener, has an effect on barrier function recovery. TECA, one of our centella asiatica active, repairs damaged skins.
Formulating dermocosmetics can be tricky as it requires to maintain skin integrity even in rinse-off application, to reduce preservative amount to respect very sensitive skins, to find film formers to help to protect skin barrier and to integrate high percentage of actives in strong formula bases. To help customers to formulate dermocosmetics, Seppic offers specialty ingredients with added values to answer these challenges. For example, SEPIMAX ZENTM helps to formulate because of its resistance to electrolytes and compatibility with strong actives currently used in dermocosmetics.
Repair & soothe cica cream
An emulsion to repair and soothe fragile and irritated skin.
Wheat essential ceramosides oil
An oily serum, the best for your skin needs.
D.I.Y. dermocosmetic base
A high stability sensory cream base.
O/W/O Moisturizing cream
A multiple emulsion to perfectly moisturized and make the skin comfortable.
References :
(1) CAGR: current annual growth rate
(2) Based on Prescient and Strategic Intelligence reports
For more information about our ingredients and formulations:
