Sustainable emollients, also an alternative to silicones: Part 1 Skin, sun and decorative cosmetics

  • November 29, 2022
  • 6 minutes of read time

Sustainable emollients, also an alternative to silicones: Part 1 Skin, sun and decorative cosmetics

The cosmetics market is constantly on the lookout for innovative, functional and environmentally friendly ingredients. The issue of sustainability in particular is becoming increasingly important and has long been an integral part of the beauty sector, especially since, according to Mintel, one in five Germans say that environmental concerns have become a higher priority as a result of the Corona pandemic.1

So consumers want natural and biodegradable cosmetics with minimal environmental impact. That is why we have developed a new generation of emollients, our Emogreen™ range, based on renewable resources and using patented production processes. It offers several key advantages over silicones: Silicone production is 5x more energy intensive than our natural emollients, which also offer a neutral carbon footprint (CO2 footprint) calculated "from cradle to gate" (from plantation to factory exit). In addition, our application studies show that our Emogreen™ emollients are also an excellent sensory alternative to silicone oils.

Chemistry and nature are not opposites

Emogreen™ is a range of plant-based alkanes. In the cosmetics industry, alkanes are known for their sensory properties. They have been used throughout the world for a long time. Historically, they have been of synthetic or mineral origin. Although these compounds can be derived from plants, it must be said that because of their INCI name (alkanes), they are still stigmatized by brands and consumers because they believe that it is a synthetic product derived from fossil sources. In essence, alkanes do not have the best image.

We understand this concern and therefore decided to emphasize that alkanes can also be of natural origin, as plants synthesize them themselves. This is what our video is meant to tell and show: Since nature is made of atoms and molecules, everything is chemistry! Chemistry and nature are not opposites.

EMOGREEN - "natural chemistry"

EMOGREEN™ are liquid, inert, non-polar oils and highly pure thanks to the patented production process. EMOGREEN™ is based on sustainable plant biomass and is biodegradable.

Emogreen™, natural alkanes Overview

Possible applications

EMOGREEN™ are non-oxidizable, stable, highly pure, inert and non-comedogenic... and therefore versatile. Emogreen™ are not only easy to incorporate into formulations because they are liquid and thanks to their transparency, but they are also compatible with all types of oil phases (vegetable oils, esters, silicone oils, mineral oils...). In addition, we have conducted numerous tests that prove that Emogreen™ can be used for all cosmetic applications (skin care, hair care, sun care, makeup, cleansing, etc.).

In this first part we would like to focus on the special properties in skin, sun and decorative care:

Skin care - focus on very dry and sensitive skin

Skin comfort is one of the biggest market demands, as more and more consumers claim to have sensitive skin: This has become a worldwide problem.

EMOGREEN™ L19 addresses the needs of very dry and sensitive skin: it is the ally of very dry skin for a better appearance, a balanced skin microbiota and a new sense of comfort! Tests show:

  •  It balances the skin's microbiota and provides a restored hydrolipidic film, the first step in improving skin hydration (tested in vivo).
  • It has a significant restructuring effect (+8%) in synergy with Bisabolol (tested in vivo).
  • It significantly improves the moisture content (+10%), softness (+15%) and smoothness (+11%) of very dry skin after 28 days. 91% of study respondents felt a decrease in skin discomfort after 28 days of treatment.

In addition, EMOGREEN™ L19 allows a reduction in the minimum amount of preservatives required to achieve preservation criterion A (according to the European Pharmacopoeia)!

This hand cream is an excellent moisturizer and protector for the skin thanks to EMOGREEN™ L19 and 20% shea butter. It repairs even the most damaged hands. EMOGREEN™ L19 facilitates the application of the hand cream by bringing a good glide.

My Iconic Hand Cream

In-vivo studies show that EMOGREEN™ L19 improves the appearance of very dry skin and shows a significant tightening effect after 1 and 6 hours after a single application.

Sun care - natural film former and anti-sand praise

The EMOGREEN™ range shows very good dispersing properties and increases the stability of formulations with inorganic as well as organic sunscreen filters. EMOGREEN™ can replace C12-15 alkyl benzoates without affecting sensory performance or SPF.

An anti-sand claim is also possible: internal tests confirm that the formulas containing EMOGREEN™ have the same results as the market benchmark claiming an anti-sand effect!

This gentle sunscreen spreads easily on the skin and is quickly absorbed. It provides daily protection against sun damage and dehydration with 25% ZnO.

A highly protective and mineral sunscreen product

Emogreen™ HP 40 is a versatile textured ingredient that is also interesting for sun protection thanks to its film-forming properties. In a sunscreen formulation with SPF 30 at 2% compared to VP/Eicosene copolymer, water resistance was measured in vitro after 20 and 40 minutes. The formulation with Emogreen™ HP 40 showed the same water resistance as the one with VP/Eicosene copolymer.

This sunscreen combines protection and a light skin feel for an enchanting customer experience thanks to its cream-gel texture. EMOGREEN™ HP 40 provides a double benefit by contributing to the dispersion of UV filters and ensuring high water resistance and durability of the sunscreen on the skin thanks to its film-forming properties.

Sunscreen gel (SPF 30)

Decorative cosmetics - Supports dispersion of pigments and color intensity

The EMOGREEN range gives make-up formulations a good glide and a pleasant, powdery afterfeel that increases skin affinity. It also supports the dispersion of pigments with anti-transfer properties.

This natural O/W foundation unifies the complexion thanks to a high content of hydrophilic pigments. EMOGREEN™ L15 provides a good glide and a pleasant powdery afterfeel that increases skin affinity.

Natural O/W foundation

In addition, Emogreen™ HP 40 was tested in a liquid lipstick compared to Hydrogenated Polyisobutene and found to be less sticky in formulation. Color intensity was also evaluated with the same formula and no significant difference was found, highlighting Emogreen™ HP 40 as a relevant sustainable alternative that offers color intensity and comfort on the lips.

Here's a gloss to protect your lips with EMOGREEN™ HP 40, which improves comfort and color intensity and makes them less sticky.

Sublime gloss protection

Even skin tone, healthy glow and moisture in just one product with this tinted cream. The combination of our two EMOGREEN™ types provides great pigment distribution with anti-transfer properties, as well as a very sensory, pleasant gliding skin feel.

CC Cream Beautifier

Makeup removal

Our lightweight silicones with Emogreen™ L15 and Emogreen™ L19 show excellent make-up removal properties compared to market references such as isododecane. And also in comparison with jojoba oil and caprylic/capric triglyceride, EMOGREEN™ removes mascara, eyeliner and lip ink visibly better.

This minimalist, milky micellar water removes makeup and gently soothes the skin.

Soft micellar milky water

EMOGREEN™ is a range of natural, non-polar & liquid alkanes manufactured with a patented production process for highest purity. Whether skin, makeup or sunscreen products: EMOGREEN™ provides a light, soft touch with many additional technically interesting benefits.

Thus, the EMOGREEN™ range offers a natural alternative without compromising on performance.

In part 2 we look at the many exciting hair care tests: Natural alternatives to silicones are also very much in demand in this area.