Although one knows one's own portfolio very well, we too are currently experiencing a rediscovery that makes us take a closer look and get excited.
Today, various chemicals covering a wide range of ingredients from ethoxylated compounds to synthetic polymers are no longer welcome in some cosmetic formulations. Even though solutions already exist, the above ingredients can rarely be replaced 1:1 and developers can choose from fewer and fewer raw materials. Each formulation can become a new challenge, with fewer options to specifically influence stability, texture and sensory properties.
That's why we took another look at FLUIDANOV™ 20X (Inci: Octyldodecanol & Octyldodecyl Xyloside): It is China, Cosmos, NaTrue and Halal compliant, vegan suitable and has a naturalness profile of 100% according to the ISO 16128 standard. As it is liquid, it can also be used cold and thus not only meets the natural but also the sustainability requirements for new raw materials.
But what is particularly exciting about this raw material is its multifunctional, technical applications: It is a stability partner thanks to its co-emulsifying properties and an emollient that gives a soft and silky skin feel. Here is a brief overview of its properties and possible applications:
Natural W/O emulsions
FLUIDANOV™ 20X is a water-in-oil (W/O) co-emulsifier.
In the following formulation, its combination of 3.2 % with 0.8 % polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate and 0.7 % magnesium sulphate enables the production of a stable and white W/O emulsion in a sustainable cold process and underlines its first obvious application.
The formulation feels light and soft and you get modern, natural and sustainable W/O emulsions thanks to FLUIDANOV™ 20X.
MgSO4 , 7H2O
QSP 100 %
Table 1 - W/O emulsion in cold process with FLUIDANOV™ 20X
(stability tested over 3 months at room temperature and 45°C)
A special case: GELTRAP™, a patented gel-in-oil technology
GELTRAP™ is a patented technology that refers to a gel-in-oil (G/O) emulsion. These formulas combine the benefits of W/O emulsions (softness, better skin hydration, water resistance) with environmental benefits (suitable for cold and low shear procedures) and sensory benefits with a surprising texture (rich skin feel and freshness).
FLUIDANOV™ 20X with 3% feed concentration is an essential element to implement this technology. In combination with another natural W/O emulsifier such as polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate (2% use concentration), a thin outer oil phase is formed, representing 8-15% of the composition, surrounding the water phase, which is organised in a viscous gel and represents 85-92% of the final composition. The gel is formed by SOLAGUM™ Tara (Inci: Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum) and SOLAGUM™ AX (Inci: Xanthan Gum, Acacia Senegal Gum).
This gives you a Cosmos-compliant GELTRAP™ formulation with an exciting texture, thanks to the outer oil phase. Here are 2 examples:
Advantages in O/W systems
However, the structure of FLUIDANOV™ 20X, which tends to be hydrophilic, can also be used in formats other than W/O systems.
We have proven that as little as 0.1% FLUIDANOV™ 20X reduces the interfacial tension and thus lowers the amount of energy required to stabilise an emulsion.
To demonstrate its efficacy in a formulation, a test was performed with a cold-processed cream gel containing more than 88 % water. The appearance of the emulsion droplets was compared with and without 1 % FLUIDANOV™ 20X (Fig. 2).
The droplets are 20X finer and smaller with FLUIDANOV™ than without, resulting in a whiter cream gel.
Fig. 2 - Improving the stability and aspect of the emulsion
As a practical example, a natural deodorant formulation (O/W emulsion) based on FLUIDIFEEL™ EASY and SOLAGUM™ AX follows. Here, as little as 0.2% FLUIDANOV™ 20X helps to stabilise the stressful raw materials without compromising on sensory properties and efficacy.
Solubilising and dispersion supporting properties
FLUIDANOV™ 20X also helps to solubilise difficult molecules and disperse pigments.
The following formulation contains our amphiphilic active ingredient LUMIPOD (Inci: Isosorbide (and) Capryloyl/Capryloyl Leucine Isosorbide Esters), which is insoluble in oils or water.
Thanks to the xylolipid structure of FLUIDANOV™ 20X, it can be stabilised in an oil format.
In the following blush formulation, FLUIDANOV™ 20X helps disperse pigment and stability and also adds smoothness and supports the melting texture.
A special case: two-phase and three-phase formulas
An interesting property was observed in two-phase or three-phase systems. The use of FLUIDANOV™ 20X in very low concentrations allows a more significant phase separation. This was observed in some formulas, such as the following triphase formulation with 0.025%.
In summary, FLUIDANOV™ 20X is a 100% natural raw material suitable for sustainable cold process formulations. It therefore meets the current requirements.
It is versatile, both for classic W/O formulations & for innovative GELTRAP™ formulations as well as a technical support in cream gels, oils or O/W emulsions with an exciting, silky smooth sensory.
That makes it a "new old must-have" :-)